http://pointedthree.com PointedThree - W123 E,CE,D,CD,TD,TE Class http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22273 http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23937 If facing the front of the engine which way does it rotate? Clockwise or counter clockwise? :banghead:]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23935 Need info and diagram on 617.952 with SLS pump output on let head.
Want to know what's beyond the pump and inside the engine.
Wish to put billet plate back on but with only one bolt in there and one empty hole. I'm hesitant. ]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23790 I'm in the middle of fitting a OM617A turbo engine from a W123 station wagon into a W460 G-Wagen. During the last few weeks I've opened the cylinder head and checked everything visually and changed neccessary seals and gaskets.

Yesterday I took the lower oilpan off and found this little piece of metal lying at the bottom. It seems to be part of 6mm wide, 50-60mm diameter ring/gasket/sleeve/bearing?

Do you guys have more educated guesses?



]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=20550 I have a 280GE with the M110 motor. It has a cast iron fuel distributer. The truck has been sluggish for quite some time. After a few fuel pumps I realized that the 40 psi at the distributer is due to the pressure regulator piston in the fuel distributer which does not allow any pressure to build. I actually ruined a 100 psi gauge figuring this out.

I put an alloy distributer on the engine and it runs great. However, when I leave the truck for a period, the fuel pressure bleeds off and then it is extremely difficult to start. The fuel pressure does not bleed off with the cast iton fuel distributer. Does this mean my alloy fuel distributer is bad, or will not work in this application?

When I put in the alloy fuel distributer I did not adjust the idle fuel mixture screw.

So, can the cast iron distributer be replaced by the alloy unit?

Thanks
Einar

]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=20000 Thx.]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=20825
Got a lead on a '79 300cd w/ 80k miles. The seller is asking $3,250. However, the a/c doesn't work. Turns out this model has a really wacked out complicated a/c system. I remember as a kid, these cars having a/c problems. Now I know why.

Can you easily & cheaply convert the automatic climate system to a manual system? Anyone in Europe sell a kit perhaps? I would think the euro market would have plenty of spare parts to convert it.

Stuart]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=11778 http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=10023 http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=18807
The car is a 1981 300D, 323kmi black on cream colored interior

The Good:
-Almost no rust, just a dime size spot under the back window
-Paint is in pretty good shape, a few small dents, seems original
-Interior is in good shape as well, no rips, no cracked dash, glove box stays latched
-Oil pressure stays pegged at 3 almost always
-Cranks almost instantly, not too loud
-New Battery
-Heat works
-Radio and antenna work
-All window and sunroof work
-Has some records, but there is more to this story... (more detail below)


The Bad:
-The car has sat for 4yrs, but each year they took it to see family on the holidays, about 250mi round trip. When not in use, it sat on blocks under a shaded carport
-The guy says to crank it, you have to cycle the key to on, then off, three times before cranking. I noticed that the glow plug light did not light up, and he knew little about the car. Could the glow plug light possibly be out, and he is basically warming them up in his on/off ritual, or is there a bigger problem here?
-The shift from first to second is weird. It starts from first fine, but when going to second, the car seems to rev high and take about 5-10sec to settle in. Acceleration is very slow at this point, but once it settles in, it gets up to 60 at a fairly good pace. It was worse on the initial drive, so we checked the fluid and saw it was low. Topped it off, which smoothed out the shifting some. The odd 1-2 shift is still there, but not quite as pronounced. Is this normal?
-It doesn't accelerate much up hills. Not sure if this is normal, a weak engine/tranny problem?
-When at rest and idling, there are wisps of smoke coming from somewhere around the engine. Possibly valve cover gasket?
-AC does not blow cold (more info below)
-Rear drivers door has trouble latching
-The brakes are spongy. They got firmer after some pumping of the pedal. Is this just from sitting and need bleeding, or could it be master/slave cylinder?

The Records:
The man’s wife showed me a folder of some records. This is where things get a little tough to judge. All of the records are from when her father died in 1998. Her sister bought the car and proceeded to get it up and running again and had a lot of stuff done (see below). The good is, the car has only been driven about 3kmi since this work. The bad is, the work is 13 years old! Here's a list:
-Rebuilt Alternator
-Completely new AC (compressor, receiver, dryer, evaporator, almost $1,400), but it doesn’t blow cold today.
-Various new suspension components (4 new shocks, stabilizer links, and some other stuff in the rear I've forgotten)
-Diff oil replaced
-New vacuum pump
-New window motor
-Fixed a door handle and latch
-New motor mounts
-Valves adjusted
-There were a number of other small things. Basically, it seemed like a thorough reconditioning of the car


All this work seems as if they were getting the car back up to driving condition, which makes me think that if the tranny was bad, it would have been addressed, so maybe the car just needs to be driven to get the cobwebs out? Again, sorry for the long post. I wish I had more time to research all this on my own.

Opinions greatly appreciated, and thanks for taking the time to read all of this!
Cliff
]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=18613 http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=18164
I was wondering if anyone may be able to give me some advice on the clutch problem that I'm having with '76 240d (w115). I bought the car recently, at the time is wasn't drivable due to blown brake line among other things. I've replaced the line and topped up the fluid but then I noticed that the clutch pedal is behaving stange. When I press it it seems normal and disconnects the engine from the tranny like it should however when I let go of it there is a long delay (literally like a second or two)until the the clutch finally grabs unexpectedly. When clutch the clutch finally grabs it seems strong and the car drives fine. Also there are no signs of any leaks around the master and slave cylinder.

I assumed that when the brake line broke and the fluid leaked out some air might have gotten into the clutch hydraulics. I tried bleeding the system twice but the problem still exists. Later on I started thinking that even if there was some air left in the system it doesn't seem like it should cause the problem I'm having....if anything the clutch should not let go when the pedal is pressed. Another theory I had was that maybe the pressure plate springs are bad and take a while to grab on when released...this doesn't stick very well either considering that the clutch is not slipping.

Please HELP!]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=16035 http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=18257 It runs, hasn't been driven much in several years, A/C not working but all there, few other minor things but basically just needs a little TLC.
I can get it for $3,000 and would like to drive it a few months while detailing it out and sell it for a profit. I will do all the work myself so no real expense.
Just wondering what the value of these cars really is? I have seen a couple on ebay similar in condition asking around $10,000, way too high I know. Realistically though what should I expect?
Rusty]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=18288
I'm in the middle of fixing the sunroof on my 200TE the car's a 93. I've removed all the headlining, the cable, motor and broken tube. I'm stuck on how to install the new tube without bending it whilst I unbolt the sunroof cassette from the roof of the car. If anyone has dome the job before I'd love some tips, at the mo I'm hitting my head against a brick wall !!! :banghead:

Thanks all.]]>