http://pointedthree.com PointedThree - W140 S Class http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=4602
This is going to be the full list of ALL U.S. market 1999 S600 Sedan (W140) and 1999 CL 600 Coupe (C140) List. Hopefully, as a team, we will be able to track down every single S600 Sedan, and CL 600 Coupe made in 1999 for the U.S. market. I have compiled this information from numerous threads on BenzWorld, but over there, there are too many separate threads. Let's keep this thread updated. This is the most up-to date list.

Here goes:

1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan (Supposedly only 14 in the U.S.)

1.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan
VIN: WDBGA57G4XA426997
LOCATION: Las Vegas, NV
COLOR: Black
INTERIOR: Black/ Grey
MILEAGE: 15,000
PRICE: $34,500

2.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan
VIN: WDBGA57G7XA416464
LOCATION: Philadelphia, PA
COLOR: Black
INTERIOR: Black/ Grey
MILEAGE: 86,377
PRICE: $23,996

3.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan
VIN: WDBGA57G7XA409014
LOCATION: Memphis, TN
COLOR: Black
INTERIOR: Black/Grey
MILEAGE: 87,977
PRICE: $20,500

4.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan
VIN: WDBGA57G8XA412195
LOCATION: West Palm Beach, FL
COLOR: Obsidian Black Metallic
INTERIOR: Black/Grey
MILEAGE: 86,021
PRICE: $29,900

5.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan w/ Lorinser Body Kit
VIN: WDBGA57G1XA403712
LOCATION: Temecula, CA
COLOR: Obsidian Black Metallic
INTERIOR: Black/Grey
MILEAGE: 97,000
PRICE: $32,995

6.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan
VIN: WDBGA57G2XA421975
LOCATION: Babylon, NY
COLOR: Obsidian Black Metallic
INTERIOR: Black/ Grey
MILEAGE: 103,000
PRICE: $38,500

7.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan
VIN: WDBGA57G5XA430170
LOCATION: San Francisco, CA
COLOR: Obsidian Black Metallic
INTERIOR: Black/Grey
MILEAGE: 129,000
PRICE: $21,450

8.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan
VIN: WDBGA57G4XA413618
LOCATION: Boca Raton, FL
COLOR: Brilliant Silver Metallic
INTERIOR: Dark Grey/Light Gray
MILEAGE: 64,680
PRICE: $26,803.00

9.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan
VIN: WDBGA57G2XA427193
LOCATION: Fort Meyers, FL
COLOR: Brilliant Silver Metallic
INTERIOR: Dark Grey/Light Gray
MILEAGE: 68,535
PRICE: $26,995

10.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan
VIN: WDBGA57G7XA432292
LOCATION: Franklin Park, IL
COLOR: Brilliant Silver Metallic
INTERIOR: Unlisted
MILEAGE: 87,340
PRICE: $18,895

11.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan
VIN: WDBGA57G2XA411320
LOCATION: Linden, NJ
COLOR: Brilliant Silver Metallic
INTERIOR: Black/Grey
MILEAGE: 111,829
PRICE: $14,995

12
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan w/ Body Kit
VIN: WDBGA57G2XA415495
LOCATION: Greenwich, CT
COLOR: Brillian Silver Metallic
INTERIOR: Black/Grey
MILEAGE: 91,658
PRICE: $27,495

13.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan
VIN: WDBGA57G8XA404503
LOCATION: Oviedo, FL
COLOR: Snow White
INTERIOR: Tan
MILEAGE: 64,749
PRICE: $28,900

14.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan
VIN: WDBGA57G8XA413797
LOCATION: Unlisted
COLOR: Snow White
INTERIOR: Tan
MILEAGE: Unlisted
PRICE: Unlisted

15.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan
VIN: WDBGA57G7XA419560
LOCATION: Oldswick, NJ
COLOR: Alexandrite Green Metallic
INTERIOR: Tan
MILEAGE: 130,000
PRICE: Unlisted

16.
1999 Mercedes-Benz S 600 Sedan
VIN: WDBGA57G7XA412477
LOCATION: Brooklyn, NY
COLOR: Midnight Blue
INTERIOR: Tan
MILEAGE: 48,950
PRICE: $22,500
___________________________________________________________________________________

1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe (Only 16 in the U.S.)

1.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G9XA407777
LOCATION: San Diego, CA
COLOR: Black
INTERIOR: Dark Grey/Light Gray
MILEAGE: 14,489
PRICE: Unlisted

2.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G1XA423987
LOCATION: Costa Mesa, CA
COLOR: Black
INTERIOR: Black/Grey
MILEAGE: 46,471
PRICE: $29,995

3.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G0XA419073
LOCATION: Anderson, SC
COLOR: Black
INTERIOR: Black
MILEAGE: 63,000
PRICE: $26,900

4.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G8XA410377
LOCATION: Tucson, AZ
COLOR: Black
INTERIOR: Tan
MILEAGE: 77,570
PRICE: $24,000

5.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe w/ Lorinser Package and 20" Zenetti Chrome wheels
VIN: WDBGA76G7XA413044
LOCATION: Alexandria, VA
COLOR: Black
INTERIOR: Black/Grey
MILEAGE: 79,286
PRICE: $25,977

6.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G9XA432467
LOCATION: Los Angeles, CA
COLOR: Obsidian Black Metallic
INTERIOR: Black/Grey
MILEAGE: 58,000
PRICE: $28,750

7.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G9XA424403
LOCATION: Tucson, AZ
COLOR: Obsidian Black metallic
INTERIOR: Tan
MILEAGE: 63,766
PRICE: $22,900

8.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G9XA407259
LOCATION: Edwards, Colorado
COLOR: Obsidian Black Metallic
INTERIOR: Dark Grey/Light Gray
MILEAGE: 78,418
PRICE: Unlisted

9.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G4XA419125
LOCATION: Temple City, CA
COLOR: Obsidian Black Metallic
INTERIOR: Dark Grey/Light Gray
MILEAGE: 85,275
PRICE: $16,100

10.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G3XA413753
LOCATION: Costa Mesa, CA
COLOR: Brilliant Silver Metallic
INTERIOR: Dark Grey/Light Grey
MILEAGE: 53,820
PRICE: $28,995

11.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G5XA419182
LOCATION: Granada Hills, CA
COLOR: Brilliant Silver Metallic
INTERIOR: Dark Grey/Light Gray
MILEAGE: 75,000
PRICE: $25,000

12.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G1XA413606
LOCATION: Studio City, CA
COLOR: Brilliant Silver Metallic
INTERIOR: Black/Grey
MILEAGE: 112,000
PRICE: $14,998

13.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G5XA413365
LOCATION: New York
COLOR: Smoke Silver Metallic
INTERIOR: Tan
MILEAGE: over 40,000
PRICE: unknown

14.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G9XA414034
LOCATION: Stockton, CA
COLOR: Emerald Green Black Metallic
INTERIOR: Unlisted
MILEAGE: 105,012
PRICE: $24,995

15.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G4XA411526
LOCATION: Leesburg, FL
COLOR: Azurite Blue Metallic
INTERIOR: Blue
MILEAGE: 102,163
PRICE: $28,995

16.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G8XA411447
LOCATION: Indianapolis, IN
COLOR: Ruby Red Metallic
INTERIOR: Dark Grey/Light Gray
MILEAGE: 66,700
PRICE: Unlisted

17.
1999 Mercedes-Benz CL 600 Coupe
VIN: WDBGA76G4XA407475
LOCATION: Virginia Beach, VA
INTERIOR: Black/Gray
MILEAGE: 103,000
PRICE: Unlisted]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=6607 http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23646

Anyhoooo, this is another rather 'easy' job.

Like always... WIS/M-B 'MANDATES' Replacement of Self-Locking Fasteners... So much so?? If Mother-Ship finds out a Warranty Job was done with the OLD fasteners?? They will deny the ENTIRE warranty Claim!!! Sooo, I guess they really are Serious!!

As with ALL suspension jobs.. it is prudent to have a 4-wheel alignment done, preferably on a Hunter Laser unit..

Here is what my UCA joints looked like!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5_n1bK0NTI&feature=youtu.be]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23187
After ordering and Installing a NEW Regulator? Still Wonky fan speeds.

Looking Directly into the Fan Housing/Motor (while Dimming the Garage Lights)... *SPARKS* within the Motor!!


After reading some posts (other M-B Models) where folks have Replaced ONLY the Brushes?? Hmmmm, the Methods did not look Satisfactory, to me... especially after seeing Sparks!!

Looking in EPC, I found the Fan Housing/Motor/"Hamster-Wheel" is only available as a One-Piece Unit, and costs $5-Zillion-Dollars$....


Sooo, back to an Internet Hunt ....

Come to find out, you CAN Replace the Motor itself, which is made by BOSCH.

The following post is *MY* home-brewed method of Motor R/R.

THEEEEEEEE most important thing to remember is: *BE CAREFUL WITH THE 'HAMSTER-WHEEL'* !!! Apparently THEY are Crazy-Expensive, as well!!

Warming the Hamster-Wheel, both on Removal AND on Re-Install relaxed the Plastic to Safely R/R without problem.

I also took the controversial extra step to put a tiny Drop of Loctite 496 (a Medium Strength "Super-Glue") to help hold the Wheel onto the Motor Shaft.


A Cheap, and Easy Repair!

G]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23117
Despite using the "Tricks" of Shutting OFF the A/C Compressor, several minutes Prior to Arrival to Destination.... Cycling Throught the Vent Settings while "Very Briefly" on the "HI Heat" mode.... Using "REST" mode on Arrival... etc.

For *ME*? These Tricks WORK! For the Rest of my Family?? Not quite as Anal-Compulsive as I am. Thus: Recurrent A/C Odor problems.

I have ALL 3 of the Recommended Mercedes Cleaning Systems... the ContraSept Air Tool/Wands, the Evaporator Disinfecting Foam, and the "WYNN's" Method.

Attached are the Mercedes Service Bullitins regarding the various approaches to Stinky-Sox A/C systems.

The purpose of this post is to describe the "WYNN's" Method.

Originally, I looked at the actual Wynn's Atomizer Tool? It's pretty Expensive, especially since it is only sourced from Europe: http://www.wynns.eu/product/aircomatic/

After doing some Testing, Trial & Error, and researching the MSDS on the Wynn's Airco-Clean? I have come to the final Conclusion:

The "Airco-Clean"??? Looks like it is nothing more than CAS 64-17-5.... Uuuhhhhh "ETHANOL"!!! Soooo, rather than spend $7 bucks for a 'Shot' of the Airco-Clean? (3 oz). I opted to source near-pure 95% Ethanol (aka Moonshine... Everclear....White-Lightning) for Cheap... Then DILUTE IT 50% with DISTILLED WATER. It works Just as Well as the Airco-Clean!


A few points to Remember... You MUST remove any Filters in the System, ESPECIALLY the Recirculation Filter. When finished with the Service? You must install **NEW** Filters!!

If you want a video of the process, you can view it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpBG2ZYLd6E

Of ALL the various methods? This is the Quickest/Easiest, plus being pretty darn effective.

"G"
]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22928
Thank goodness I DID... On VISUAL Inspection, the Cracks looked small, and FINE in size. No BRIDGING Cracks between the webs. After 18 Years and 185,000 miles, they were due!

THEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE Most Important thing to remember is MARKING THE ENTIRE SHAFT/DISC/FLANGE(Front & Rear)/DIFFERTENTIAL-TRANSMISSION-BODIES Orientation!!

These Shafts are Balanced as a Whole, it is it 100% Imperative the ENTIRE Complex gets put back together AS IT DID IN THE FACTORY.


I must say, After the repair? The car shifts better, and is much Smoother at highway speeds. I guess the Rubber gets hard after soooo many years!

G]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22748
Upon applying a Lever to the Supporting Joint? There is a a 1 mm "play" in the right joint. Translating such a tiny amount of play into "Vibration at 60 mph" is about what I am feeling.

Since the Joints are original, and have 18 years, and 183,000 miles of Rough, Lousy, roads on them?? I felt I would simply change them out.

After the Change? The Vibration I was feeling?? GONE!!!

I went with Lemforder brand, which seems to be the Go-To Brand for Suspension parts.


The Post is merely a Color Photo Regurgitaion of WIS. No cutesie tricks. I'm sure there are lots-o-other-ways of performing the change, without any of the MB specified tools. I am simply going "by-the-book".


*IMPORTANT NOTE*!! If you are performing the joint change with the Springs Installed?? The Shock-Absorber *MUST* be Installed.

As ALWAYS, work *SAFELY*!!
G]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22683 I have been lurking in the forums for about 4 months now and this is my first post here on Pointed Three.
I am in the midst of restoring a 1980 230g and will be transplanting the motor from a newly acquired 1992 500SEL.
Outside of the motor, transmission and associated parts that will need to migrate over with it, the remainder of the car will be parted out.
If you need a part, please PM me and let me know what it is you need and are willing to pay and I will get back with you.
Please keep in mind that shipping costs will be in addition to whatever is agreed upon on the price for the part(s).
I will upload a few photos when I have time, but would like to try and gauge some interest and see how many people need/want parts before I really start digging into the vehicle.

Oh and by the way, any advice on performing this particular motor swap is encouraged! :help:

If interested, here is a link to my project post on ClubGWagen https://clubgwagen.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=6600
]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22246
Found a nice puddle on my nice white garage floors!! That won't do, at all!! ;^)

Having a look from underneath, revealed a "common" leak, from the Aft, "U-Shaped" section of the Valve cover Gasket.

Upon removal? The Gasket was as *HARD* as a Rock!! And Brittle!!



IMPORTANT NOTE!!!-- When Ordering your valve cover Gaskets? Make sure you order the "Sealing Rings" for the Cover Bolts. Also, you will "Most-Likely" Need New Breather Hoses, as well. You would be Well-Advised to "Feel" the Rubbers prior to contemplating the Job, so you have them On-Hand.



The Driver's Side (LHD Vehicles) is the more difficult of the two, as you need to remove several hoses, including the Fuel Lines. Obviously have rags to catch any Fuel Drips, and a Fire Extinguisher on-hand. Plug the Connections upon removal, to prevent contamination.

The Passenger's Side? Much Easier. In fact, I was able to Tilt the Valve Cover sufficiently to R/R the Gasket, WITHOUT the need to Disconnect the Breather Hose, or the Wire Harness.

Hope this Helps someone..

"G"]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22245
BUT! After a recent failure in the Newer G55? I wanted to be Proactive...

Luckily, I was off-road, performing my weekly Differential "Exercising", moving at 2 mph when the engine suddenly *SHUT-OFF*. Not something I would like to happen going 70 MPH on the Freeway!!

Sooo, I am going to change ALL of my vehicles' CPS's. Paranoid? YEP! But, for $50 bucks? It will give me the piece of mind, especially with my boys now Driving on their own.


Compared to a M112 or M113 Engine?? This was a No-Brainer, especially going from BELOW. Literally, a 5 Minute-Special. Just be super safe when Lifting the Vehicle/Working Underneath. Also, Do the Job with the engine *COLD*, since the Catalytic Converter is right on your arm.

"G"

]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22203
It has been "Leaking Oil on the Garage Floor, Central" at my house. Between the Leaking M112 (W210) and the M113 (W463) Valve/Breather Covers, and now the M119 (W140)? This is becoming my new Full-Time job... :^(

Anyhoooo, apparently this is a very Common Oil Leaking location on these Engines.

This is a REALLY Easy DIY solution.

Please note: The Specified Sealant 001 989 89 20 10, apparently is the EXACT same thing as Loctite 574. The price difference between the Two? Negligible.

Be sure to let the Sealant Cure completely BEFORE starting the Motor. It looks from the Curing Charts that 24 hours (at a 22C shop temp) is a good interval.

"G"]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=21917
"Ahh, why don't you just grab a pair of Needle-Nose Pliers, and crimp the Connector", or the process of RELEASING the Connectors, "Just take a PaperClip and prise the Connector Out!!"'


Well, being a Noob at Wiring Repair, I did a bit of research, trying to find a method "As close to Factory as Possible".

The following post is as close to what I have found to be the "Factory" method of Wire Connector Repair.

The M-B system of Repair is a rather KLUNKY, and non-intuative system.

First, you need to Find the Connector Housing Part within EPC, then Navigate to the "Connector" position.

Sometimes, the part# contains the Wire Size, sometimes NOT. If "Not" you might have to go to the Wire Diagram to determine this. The "Chart" per below can also help.

You then refer to the "Chart" to determine the Crimp Set#, System Release Tool for that Connection.

The repair then proceeds per below.

I am showing the Crimping Process OUTSIDE of the Vehicle. The Dark interior of the Car, and the Short wire I had to work with? Yielded lousy photos.



The Profile of the "Factory" Crimp is quite a bit more COMPLEX than I realized. Here is a Reference, showing a Good-vs-Bad Crimp:

http://www.digikey.com/Web%20Export/Supplier%20Content/Tyco_8004/PD...

For a more Detailed Explanation:

http://www.shearwaterresearch.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/qual_c...


I am posting this on various sub-forums, as the procedure is M-B Generic. Obviously there are an entire SPECTRUM of different Micro-Connectors, including the "ELA" version, which has a WeatherSeal Protection on the non-connecting end of the connector.

Hopefully, this will help others "Learn along with me">

"G"]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=21368
My name is Charlie, I am 21 and I am the new owner of a Smoke Silver 1992 Mercedes-Benz 600SEL. It only has 91k original miles. I traded my '92 400E with 175k miles for it, no cash involved. I have loved the brand ever since I purchased my 400E for $2,000 a year ago and I've always wanted an M120 Mercedes. I have crept on the forums for a year or so but this is my first thread since becoming a member in January when I got the 600. I am proud to say it isn't perfect and it does have some electrical gremlins, but I have all of the service records up to 85k and it gets me to work and back and then some. I have no complains other than the fuel economy but what does one expect with twelve cylinders. I do have some questions specifically about the problems with my car and about the 140 series in general, but I'll get to that after I do some more searching.

Here are a few pictures, enjoy! They are from a few years ago and now the car is missing the V12 badges and has a lovely deep scratch along the hood. It has different plates now so I wasn't worried about hiding them. I have also posted this on MB World, Benz World, Mercedes Forum, Benz Forum and myMBonline so see you there!

http://i39.tinypic.com/dws7lt.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/2m6x55u.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/bi874k.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/2ufr880.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/30ixqhz.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/25rgfbr.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/rs4yzp.jpg]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=21843

Per WIS, the LCA should be Removed in order to R/R the "INNER" LCA Metal-Clad Bushing.

There is a special Tool, for use with a Hydraulic Press, to Push-Out, and Press-In the rather Stubborn Bush.

Judging the Drawings from the Special Tool Catalogue, it appears nothing more exotic than the pressing sleeve set I have.

PLEASE Use EXTREME Care, when working with the Springs. They can *KILL* you in a split second.

G]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=21842
Therefore, I opted to just Finish the Rear-end, and call it a day.

The "INNER" Metal-Clad Bushing of the Lower Control Arm is VERY Tightly Afixed, so you will require a good-quality Press/Pulling Set-Up, whether it be Home-Brewed, or Commercially available.

I am not going to go into the particulars of the actual set-up I used, as it is a Mixture of different sets.

Please Note!!! The Factory Procedure specifies, Complete REMOVAL of the LCA, and R/R the Metal Clad Bush using a Hydraulic Press.

For that procedure, please refer to my next post, which shows the "OFF VEHICLE" rendition of the bush R/R.

Since this is NOT a Specified WIS procedure, it is being posted Solely for "Entertainment Value Only" and not as a procedure guide.

G]]>