http://pointedthree.com PointedThree - W202 C Class http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23198 Sorry to show great ignorance on this, but I have a C280 (as above) which I suspect I may have caused the timing chain to jump a tooth when I was undoing the flywheel bolts without locking the various sprockets. I know, an unexplainable attack of stupidity!
If it has jumped a tooth would the engine still run? I thought these are interference engines which makes me think the engine wouldn't run, or it would destroy the valves/pistons when attempting to run?
2nd question - if the engine can run with the timing out a tooth, how can I check the timing marks (the copper links) are all lined up with the engine still in situ? I'm happy to remove the radiator and fans and slam panel if that means I can get to see the timing marks/links. I'd rather not have to go to the trouble of removing the engine if possible.
Thanks
Steve]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23155
Playing around with the V-Belt Tensioner, showed it to be a bit Loose.


I ordered a New Tensioner, AND New Pulley.

After reading multiple sources implying that the Shocks for the Tensioner "Never Break".... I opted to NOT Buy a New one....

*BIG MISTAKE* !!!

After Re-Installing Everything, I turn on the engine, and it sounded like an Old W123 with a OM603 DIESEL ENGINE!!


Yes.... the actual *SHOCK* might not fail (and YES... I *DID* Test the shock prior to Re-Install.... Firm as Firm could be....) BUT!!??? The *BUSHINGS* at either End of the Shock???

DOOOOOHHHHHH!!!!

In My Case, the Lower Shock Bushing was Toast.

Soooooooooooo........ Take *EVERYTHING* Apart, AGAIN!!, and Install a New Shock.



One Note on the Belt Removal? I was LAZY, and simply CUT the Old V-Belt.

"G"]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23154
Because of a "Difficult-Cold-Starting" Condition, requiring a few Cranks in order to achieve a "First Start of the Day", I thought maybe the Fuel Pressure Regulator was at fault.

Although I saw NO Fuel coming out of the Vacuum Fitting? I still was convinced the Regulator may be bad. I had a similar situation on a M119 Engine... "Tested" Fine, but was still bad!!

For $30 bucks? I did not monkey-around with Pressure Testing With & Without Vacuum application.... Simply changed it out! 2 Minute Job.


Now?? Cold-Start is PUUUUURFECT!!

"G"]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22399
Since then, I have noticed a "vibration" arising from the right front wheel area, most pronounced at
30 mph and 65 mph.

After SAFELY lifting the car, Pry-Bar examination of the suspension system revealed a Loose "Supporting Joint" or "Lower Ball Joint", whatever you want to call it...

Since I had already purchased the Joints for my Mother-in-Law's W202 (the idiot shop who "claimed" they were bad... they were perfectly fine, so I brought them home.)

I decided to give the Meyle HD (Heavy-Duty) versions a try. I'll let you know my impressions later down the road (pardon the pun).

Here are some YouTube clips showing "Normal" and "Aby-Normal" Joints:

Normal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QavRcNLEsKw&feature=youtu.be

Aby-Normal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFEhjwOOQRM&feature=youtu.be

"G"


PS- "WHY" am I posting a W210 job on a W202 forum?? Because it is the EXACT SAME Job, Torque Values, Part Numbers... Etc.]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=21916
"Ahh, why don't you just grab a pair of Needle-Nose Pliers, and crimp the Connector", or the process of RELEASING the Connectors, "Just take a PaperClip and prise the Connector Out!!"'


Well, being a Noob at Wiring Repair, I did a bit of research, trying to find a method "As close to Factory as Possible".

The following post is as close to what I have found to be the "Factory" method of Wire Connector Repair.

The M-B system of Repair is a rather KLUNKY, and non-intuative system.

First, you need to Find the Connector Housing Part within EPC, then Navigate to the "Connector" position.

Sometimes, the part# contains the Wire Size, sometimes NOT. If "Not" you might have to go to the Wire Diagram to determine this. The "Chart" per below can also help.

You then refer to the "Chart" to determine the Crimp Set#, System Release Tool for that Connection.

The repair then proceeds per below.

I am showing the Crimping Process OUTSIDE of the Vehicle. The Dark interior of the Car, and the Short wire I had to work with? Yielded lousy photos.



The Profile of the "Factory" Crimp is quite a bit more COMPLEX than I realized. Here is a Reference, showing a Good-vs-Bad Crimp:

http://www.digikey.com/Web%20Export/Supplier%20Content/Tyco_8004/PDF/te-connectivity-crimp-quality-guidelines.pdf?redirected=1

For a more Detailed Explanation:

http://www.shearwaterresearch.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/qual_crimp.pdf


I am posting this on various sub-forums, as the procedure is M-B Generic. Obviously there are an entire SPECTRUM of different Micro-Connectors, including the "ELA" version, which has a WeatherSeal Protection on the non-connecting end of the connector.

Hopefully, this will help others "Learn along with me">

"G"
]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=21118
About a month ago I bought a 1995 C200 (petrol) for £625. Its only done 81,000 miles and has a full service history from Mercedes dealers upto about 65,000 miles. The car is in lovely condition so I was quite pleased with myself for getting such a bargain. Unfortunately, about a week ago it suddenly started misfiring so badly that it just can't be driven over about 20mph.

I've taken it to a garage (on the Good Garage scheme) and they've discovered that the coil pack for cylinders 2 and 3 wasn't working, so it was only firing on 2 cylinders. They replaced the faulty coil pack with a new one, but that didn't make any difference. To cut a long story short the garage have traced the wiring back to the ECU and all seems fine, leading them to think its an ECU problem.

A new ECU will cost approx £1,600 from Mercedes (not actually checked this yet), so that clearly isn't a viable option. The other options as I see it are:

1. The garage have dropped the car in at a local (Leamington Spa) ECU repair specialist to see if he can fix it. For now, I've gone with this option.

2. Is it worth buying a used ECU (assuming I could get hold of one). The garage tell me that Mercedes would still have to code this in to match the car which would also be quite costly (c. £400, again, I haven't checked this out).

Can't think of any other options. Seems an awful shame to have to scrap a nice low mileage car just cos the ECU is playing up.

Does anyone have any other ideas/suggestions, or have experienced the same problem?

Many thanks.

Steve]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=21081


As one Bit of Preliminary work done: I Bleed the Brake Fluid System PRIOR to performing the Brake work... Just so NO "Dirty" Fluid would be passed RETROGRADE in the Brake Lines, during Caliper Piston Press-Back.

http://www.pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.php?tid=12666&posts=1&mid=130408&highlight=brake+bleeding&highlightmode=1&action=search#M130408]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=21080
This is not the first time I have seen this with Mercedes brakes.

Sooooo, the Main purpose of my Repair-Visit to my Mom's was to Deal with the Braking system.


As always... you must have the utmost care when working on a Raised vehicle... if you don't know what this means... then you shouldn't be doing this kind of work.

Since I was working in "Primative" Conditions (by my Spoiled Princess Standards...) the lighting is poor, and my photos not to my liking, thus.... but you can still get a fair jist of the Procedure.

I opted to go with the ATE System of Rotors and Pads.

As a Note: I spoke with one of the ATE Technical folks regarding "Break-In" Procedure.... they gave the same Speil as if it were a New Car: "Easy Braking for the first 200 miles"... This is the route I took....

This is contrary to alot of folks out there who still go with the "Bedding-In" Procedure, which is quite the rough work-out for brakes.]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=21079
One 150 Gram tube of Mercedes Grease, and new Inner Seals are all that is required (assuming the bearings are OK... which a vast majority of the time, they ARE!).

Be sure to give good "back and forth" Rotation of the Hub while doing the Tightening and Adjustments.... you want the bearings well seated.

Please see my "Front Brake Overhaul" Post for the Disassembly of the Calipers/Rotors, to get you to the Level of the Hub Job.]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=21078
Two Separate shops have "claimed" the Lower Supporting/Ball Joints were shot. They were in perfect shape last time I checked them

Because of this... I purchased New Joints, thinking the old one *MUST* be bad if two shops say they are...


Well, actually DRIVING the car, there were NO squeeks, NO noises over Bumps... ZIP-O.


The Following Exams were all NORMAL!! :

1- Visual Inspection of the Joint Rubber "Boots"- All Intact.

2- PryBar Man-Handling of the Joints- *NO* Detectable Play ( Up to 1 mm Play is Acceptable )

3- The Go/No-Go Gauge was smaller than the Joint Height... which means NORMAL!

4- Dial Gauge Testing... Normal.


Since I was running out of time during my Whirlwind Maintenance Tour.... I opted to not Screw around with them at Midnight...]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=21077
Burned-Out Instrument Cluster Bulbs was on the List.

Please note: This is for a 1996 C220 (W202.022), so the Type/Number of bulbs will Vary.

I purchased the Bulbs from AutoHausAZ, at a FRACTION of the cost as the dealer... and they were the OEM Osram Bulbs...


Be EXCEEDINGLY CAREFUL Removing the Cluster, as there are many reports of Folks "Breaking" the Cluster Lens or Plastic Surround. They are very VERY Expensive to replace. If you pull the Cluster out only a few Millimeters at a time... and Alternate between Left & Right, you should have no problems.... I have taken out many of these, with *NO* broken lenses!

The M-B tool shown is only a couple of bucks, but will make the job really REALLY easy to do!

G]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=15015 http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=19156
Pls help
Thanks
]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=2334

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