http://pointedthree.com PointedThree - W210 E Class http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=20038
My wife had a slight "Whoops" moment with a Parking Garage Concrete Pillar... with a dent and a scratch down to the metal.

JUST TO BE 100% CLEAR, I AM AN ABSOLUTE *FLAMINGLY NOVICE* PAINTER. THIS POST IS COMPLETELY 100% FOR "ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY", and to also illicit any "constructive criticism" from those folks who are pros at this, and can offer any practical hints.

I am solely following the Standox guideline on this job, and from Zero real-life experience.

Anyway, I am teaching myself painting in order to be one step closer to "Automotive Independence"....

Cheers,
G]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23939
Thanks in advance! :(]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23876
I need help from anyone in or has someone that can do some digging in Japan.

I've been on the lookout for an E50 AMG for some time now. I'm just coming off a W126 300SE and though it wasn't anything special spec-wise, she is the one I loved the most. I've had thoughts of getting another one, but I want something with a bit more power and with more than 4 gears so I have an easier time on the highway.

Long story short(or long)-
1 Had to be V8, so I looked at the M117... Nope, No 5 speed Auto

2 Looked at M119... Better, But still had 5-speed autos only in the later gens.

3 Maybe M113?... seems like the optimum choice, but was put off by the reduction in power and was convinced by "the 113 is inferior to 119 construction-wise" argument.

4 So convinced it had to be M119... But, oh I wasn't going to put my head in the crocodile’s mouth with the dreaded bio-degradable wiring issues of the early m119s. So it had to be one of the later model R129s or the W140s. Didn't look at anything else because these were readily available in the market.

5 That was, until I came across this gem- The E50 AMG. M119 engine(the last of them, so pretty much as good as the engine is going to get out of the factory), one of the first AMGs(so bragging rights), 5-speed auto & W210(so, I could expect slightly better creature comforts).

6 But…From Wiki: “Production Figures: ~2,870 (production models).”……Great :banghead: … Went back to the R129s & W140s

7 Then these things started popping up in the classifieds… every few months one would come up, always from the same dealer and always a Japanese import. And always for about $3500 US. Not enough red or green flags to go either way. So I watched a few come, made enquiries and kept track of how much they all went for, just to understand the demand and general value.

And a few days back, another one landed here in Dubai, 56K kms indicated & from the same dealer. Paid him a visit and test drove the car. She feels fine, needs a new set of tires all around, few electricals need some tending to(driver side mirror motor needs changing, passenger front window is a little tight, some trim maintenance etc.).

Typically, I would have a condition report taken for the stealership, knowing full well their repair estimates will be three or four times what I’d have paid for the car. But, I don’t think anyone else would draw up a more detailed, comprehensive & extensive list of what’s wrong with the car. Essentially a full body MRI of the car. It might even provide some leverage during negotiations.

But to get the car out of the port and to the stealership, I’d have to pay for the customs clearance. That cost, which, if I eventually decide I don’t want the car, the importer will not refund.

So, before I make that jump, I thought I’d try enlisting some help from the brethren. I’ve got the VIN of the car, and if any of my friends on the other side of the world can get some info from the dealership there or by any chance know the car… any thing at all… would be invaluable. I’ve also linked the seller’s posting below. :cheers:

1997 E50 AMG
Silver
56,000 KMs
VIN WDB2100721A453576
Listing: https://dubai.dubizzle.com/motors/used-cars/mercedes-benz/amg/2018/5/16/e50-amg-mercedes-benz-v8-2/

Thank you in advance for any input.
:wave:]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23872
My plans are: All fluids of every type and each and every filter, along with plugs, shocks and tires.  I'll also seek to do some cosmetic work on the headlight lenses and dash cracks, paint polishing etc.  -- Please feel free to add any recommendations that are a good idea in your estimation for a car of this age and history.

For my first job (after cabin filters) I'll be seeking to do the transmission fluid change with filter, gasket and electrical connector.  I'm buying the evacuator and doing it similar to Diesel Mechanic on YouTube with multiple exchanges of what I expect will be 3 or 4 liters each.  I'm buying 15 liters of fluid (001-989-68-03-13-M22)  for my supply purchase. 

MY QUESTION: If I drain the torque converter , and fill it through the dipstick, will I be able to get the quantity of fluid that comes out of the pan, and the quantity out of the TC all in the same fill, or will I need to run it a bit to get some fluid back into the TC?  Is there any trick to this?  Any cautions for draining the TC?  I understand I need to turn the engine on the front nut using a ratchet and only clockwise.  This is a first for me.  Little bit nervous.

Thank you for helping with your knowledge!
-- r0gue]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23822 I have a problem with my 99 E300TD. The Drivetrain Slack - Both ends - in the Differential and in the Transmission. What's wrong with it? How to fix it?
Picture worth 1000 words and the video even more. Please see my videos on youtube showing the problem. I will greatly appreciate any information about what is wrong and how to fix this problem. Thank you in advance...

Please use links below to see the videos;

https://youtu.be/3VDEeFNsMRo
https://youtu.be/nIt0t_4p_0s
https://youtu.be/sCzNhugrO-s

]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23645
A surprisingly easy job, especially if you follow the WIS procedure of R/R "With Wheel Carrier Installed".

NO NEED to remove Springs, Shock, Entire Lower Control Arm...

Simply remove tire, R/R LCA-to-Wheel Carrier Nut/Bolt **** YOU MUST REPLACE SELF-LOCKING NUT PER WIS*** Separate the Wheel Carrier from the LCA, Press OUT the Old Joint, Pull-In the New Joint, Re-Align the components by pulling the wheel carrier back into the LCA, Nut/Bolt back in.. Torque.... DONE!!

Here is what My RLSJ looked like:

https://youtu.be/zX8WZzB6s_M

Of course... Post-Procedure, a 4-Wheel Hunter 'Laser' Alignment is in Order!

G]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23644
Symptoms?? Very slight steering wheel vibration at around 50 mph.

After lifting wheel, and checking for free-play, this is what I encountered:

https://youtu.be/--b4FdOTUZY

Because I had recently replaced Lower Control Arm Bushings, and Lower Supporting Joint, plus re-packing/adjusting the wheel bearings to spec... the only 'Logical' component which would explain a 12/6 o'clock free-play? UCA.

After reading several posts about this job, I was a little 'apprehensive' since I don't have a second pair of hands to help with the 'Hidden-Nut' up inside the wheel-well..


In reality?? Quite an 'Easy' job. I don't have gorilla-length arms, yet I was easily able to Ratchet the Bolt in the Engine Bay, while at the same time securing the 'hidden-nut' with a spanner.

What helped tremendously, was the ability to access the Left (Driver's side for LHD vehicles) nut directly from the TOP. A simple small magnet was used to align the nut, just enough to get the threads engaged, THEN place a spanner through the 'access-hole' for further tightening.

The passenger's side was a bit more fiddly... with a few tries at placing the Flanged Nut into a Box-End-Spanner, and carefully inserting without dropping the nut... I was able to 'Feel' the Bolt end, and get the threads started.... Again, All with one hand in the engine bay, the other in the wheel-well area.

Per WIS mandate: *NEW SELF-LOCKING NUTS & BOLTS*

I went with Lemforder UCA's.

Also, I did final torqueing with 'Weight-on-Wheels' for a Road-Ready condition.

FINALLY? Take the Alignment Shop for a Hunter-Laser-Alignment.]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22170
Apparently, it is the BREATHER Covers which are the Usual offenders for a Cover-Area leak. So, a good idea to re-seal during a Valve Cover Gasket change.


Now, Since part of the Breather Cover is involved in the Valve Cover 9 Nm Torquing Process??? I think the Re-Sealing is best done with the Valve Cover ALREADY INSTALLED!!! With Only 10 Minutes of Usable Work-Time before it sets-up? I think this is NOT enough time to do the ENTIRE Valve Cover Install.

You will see, the 4 Nm Aluminum screws only cause a "Partial" Expression/Oozing-Out of the Sealant.. the 9 Nm torque really squishes out the sealant, soooo, I think the Valve cover should already be in place, ready for Final Torquing.


***IMPORTANT NOTE***!!!! You Really should allow a 24 Hour "Cure" time before Starting the Engine, after Re-Sealing!!!!!!

Be sure to order NEW Aluminum Breather Cover Screws, as they get quite deformed after one use.]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23156
Despite using the "Tricks" of Shutting OFF the A/C Compressor, several minutes Prior to Arrival to Destination.... Cycling Throught the Vent Settings while "Very Briefly" on the "HI Heat" mode.... Using "REST" mode on Arrival... etc.

For *ME*? These Tricks WORK! For the Rest of my Family?? Not quite as Anal-Compulsive as I am. Thus: Recurrent A/C Odor problems.

I have ALL 3 of the Recommended Mercedes Cleaning Systems... the ContraSept Air Tool/Wands, the Evaporator Disinfecting Foam, and the "WYNN's" Method.

Attached are the Mercedes Service Bullitins regarding the various approaches to Stinky-Sox A/C systems.

The purpose of this post is to describe the "WYNN's" Method.

Originally, I looked at the actual Wynn's Atomizer Tool? It's pretty Expensive, especially since it is only sourced from Europe: http://www.wynns.eu/product/aircomatic/

After doing some Testing, Trial & Error, and researching the MSDS on the Wynn's Airco-Clean? I have come to the final Conclusion:

The "Airco-Clean"??? Looks like it is nothing more than CAS 64-17-5.... Uuuhhhhh "ETHANOL"!!! Soooo, rather than spend $7 bucks for a 'Shot' of the Airco-Clean? (3 oz). I opted to source near-pure 95% Ethanol (aka Moonshine... Everclear....White-Lightning) for Cheap... Then DILUTE IT 50% with DISTILLED WATER. It works Just as Well as the Airco-Clean!


A few points to Remember... You MUST remove any Filters in the System, ESPECIALLY the Activated Charcoal Filter. When finished with the Service? You must install **NEW** Filters!!

If you want a video of the process, you can view it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpBG2ZYLd6E

Of ALL the various methods? This is the Quickest/Easiest, plus being pretty darn effective.

"G"]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23090
I recently parted out my black 99 E class and still have a lot of parts available. I am located near Toronto, Canada. I am able to ship parts, just let me know what your interested in.

Parts not available :

motor
front seats
muffler
fuel tank
door mirrors
front fenders
front /rear bumpers]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22893
I opted to go with MB Branded Brake Parts. I have seen, first-hand, that there *IS* a Difference between the M-B branded Rotors, and the OEM Supplier version of the SAME EXACT Rotor. One of my G-Wagen friends down here bought the same ATE part number as the M-B Rotor. It really did not "Look/Feel" right... so he order the M-B version. We had the two side-by-side, and there DEFINATELY was a difference in the Milling, and overall "Heft".

Soooo, since I Always Preach: "There is only *ONE* system on a vechile which matters.... and that is the *BRAKES* !!! You can survive with a failure of just about every other system..." I decided to go First-Class and get another 19 yrs/185K with M_B parts.

Anyhooo, here is the procedure for a 1998 E320 W210.065. Some models differ, so PLEASE check your Repair Manual for your particular version. This especially applies to the Rear Fixed Caliper Mounting bolts which come in TWO sizes, M10 (in my case) which is a 55 Nm Torque, and a M12 version (115 Nm, like the Fronts).

Also, *PLEASE* use great care Lifting/Securing Vehicle. DIY Wrenching is NOT worth risking your life over!!

A few Changes since my other posts regarding brake/hub work: The Anti-Seize paste has changed from the "M-B Long Term Grease (aka Castrol OlistaMoly
II) to the Newer version of "Hot Paste" (Castrol Optimal Paste TA), which I think is the same stuff you see on O2 sensor threads. I REALLY like this stuff better than the older style grease in that it is MUCH 'stickier' and does NOT melt/ooze/run like the Olistamoly, so less risk of getting into the Lug Bolt Threads.

I know alot of folks don't like to Press-Back the caliper pistons due to risk of driving "Crud" back up into the ABS components, etc. Well, all I know is THIS is the way M-B WIS recommends it. Plus? Since I bleed my brakes on an ANNUAL basis? I personally don't worry about any "Crud" in there!!
Please also note, I do a FULL Brake Bleeding after Brakework, anyway.

And, as with ***ALL*** Brake Repairs, make sure you THOROUGHLY Pump the Brakes, and do THOROUGH Start/Stop Testing PRIOR to Venturing Out onto the Roadways!!!!

"G"]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=23050
Sooo, I am driving, and notice several new, subtle annoyances, mostly Right-Front-Wheel-in-Location. Since I had recently replaced the Lower Ball Joints, and have re-packed the Bearings... there is not much left, other than the LCA Bushings.

The symptoms include slight steering wheel vibration, slight "drift" to the right, and some subtle 'clunks' on rough roads.

Because my LCA's, themselves, are in good-looking shape, I opted to simply change out the Bushings.

I went with Lemfoerder brand, which I believe is the SAME as my Original Factory-Installed Bushings. (nearly 20 years, and 188,000 Miles on these bushes!)

Now, to be Clear, the Posted procedure is NOT the 'Official WIS' procedure, which prescribes Completely Removing the WHOLE wishbone.


I will give a *HUGE WARNING*.... If you DON'T have the Correct Spring-Compression Tool, and if you DON'T have the Skill-Set to be working around Springs?? Then you *SHOULD NOT ATTEMPT THIS JOB*!! Automovie Springs are *DEADLY*, so leave it to a professional shop if you have any Doubt!!

"G"]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22924
Soo? Time to get to it!


THEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE Most Important thing to remember is MARKING THE ENTIRE SHAFT/DISC/FLANGE(Front & Rear)/DIFFERTENTIAL-TRANSMISSION-BODIES Orientation!!

These Shafts are Balanced as a Whole, it is it 100% Imperative the ENTIRE Complex gets put back together AS IT DID IN THE FACTORY.


I must say, After the repair? The car shifts better, and is much Smoother at highway speeds. I guess the Rubber gets hard after soooo many years!

G]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22892 I have only changed the front pads ONCE, and the Rear pads? Never!

I opted to go with MB Branded Brake Parts. I have seen, first-hand, that there *IS* a Difference between the M-B branded Rotors, and the OEM Supplier version of the SAME EXACT Rotor. One of my G-Wagen friends down here bought the same ATE part number as the M-B Rotor. It really did not "Look/Feel" right... so he order the M-B version. We had the two side-by-side, and there DEFINATELY was a difference in the Milling, and overall "Heft".

Soooo, since I Always Preach: "There is only *ONE* system on a vechile which matters.... and that is the *BRAKES* !!! You can survive with a failure of just about every other system..." I decided to go First-Class and get another 19 yrs/185K with M_B parts.

Anyhooo, here is the procedure for a 1998 E320 W210.065. Some models differ, so PLEASE check your Repair Manual for your particular version.

Also, *PLEASE* use great care Lifting/Securing Vehicle. DIY Wrenching is NOT worth risking your life over!!

A few Changes since my other posts regarding brake/hub work: The Anti-Seize paste has changed from the "M-B Long Term Grease (aka Castrol OlistaMoly
II) to the Newer version of "Hot Paste" (Castrol Optimal Paste TA), which I think is the same stuff you see on O2 sensor threads. I REALLY like this stuff better than the older style grease in that it is MUCH 'stickier' and does NOT melt/ooze/run like the Olistamoly, so less risk of getting into the Lug Bolt Threads.

I know alot of folks don't like to Press-Back the caliper pistons due to risk of driving "Crud" back up into the ABS components, etc. Well, all I know is THIS is the way M-B WIS recommends it. Plus? Since I bleed my brakes on an ANNUAL basis? I personally don't worry about any "Crud" in there!!
Please also note, I do a FULL Brake Bleeding after Brakework, anyway.

"G"]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=744