http://pointedthree.com PointedThree - G-Class DIY Forum http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=26186
A Eurospec M110-984 is 26° at 3,500 RPM but that is a 9:1 engine. The US M110-984 spec would not apply because it has the G Wagon fuel injection and exhaust manifolds and none of the US pollution controls. The W460 spec would not apply because it is not the low compression 994. Essentially, it is a Eurospec with 8.5:1 compression and a US spec cam profile.

Background: My 1982 W460 M110-994 G wagon developed a severe bottom end knock (read $8,000 and three months to book it in). I found and bought a 1981 280E LHD US Spec sedan that had been originally imported by the official MB importer into Japan. For the first 25 years it was driven about 2,500 km a year, and then when imported into NZ, it got lost in a dealer's storage warehouse and was never privately owned or driven. From 2012 to 2025 it was driven 3 km, but when the workshop started it in 2025 to get rid of it, it fired up. However, having sat for 12 years, the fuel injection system was a mess and the owner did not want to pour money into it, telling the workshop to dump it. I got lucky.

It had been driven 65,000 km (40,000 miles) since new and the interior looked like it just came out of the factory. After I pulled the engine, I sold the rest to a restoration shop for next to nothing so the 280E looks like it will have a second life.

It is a M110-984 K-Jetronic engine 123-033. It had all the US Spec controls... but all the peripherals were replaced with the G Wagon fuel injection, exhaust manifold, motor mounts, but not the cat, EGR, SAI, etc. Essentially, it became a long-block donor for the G wagon

It appears to have the lower (compared to Eurospec) 8.5:1 compression ratio. Compression test while in the 280E:

1: 135
2: 130
3: 130
4: 130
5: 140
6: 135

That seems a bit low but we have not looked at the valves yet.

We now are tuning the engine in the G wagon, but don't know what to set the timing.

Any thoughts on a good setting?

PS: While the idle is still lumpy, once it gets going, it is a whole lot stronger than the old M110-994 (G Wagon spec).]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=15847
Access to the underside of the antenna is easy, pushing the entire domelight unit forward toward the windshield and pulling down on the upper edge. The antenna boot has an integrated grommet and can be pushed down into the cab. The dent pushed out easily and the antenna boot was replaced in the hole using some clear silicone sealant around the base. the dealer sold me a new cover which goes on top of the original boot. It is slightly more prominent than the original piece and has an internal flange which interfaces with the groove near the base of the original nipple. All told, it was a very simple and easy repair. The headliner did not get wet as the water that did get in must have dripped directly down into the main dome light clear plastic bowl. Lucky.

The silicone was the "shower in 1 hour" type, but as it started to rain about 5 minutes later I had to pull it into the garage. :dunce:]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=25173
I tried to be as clear as possible. If I can provide any more clarity, please let me know.

Matt]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=25143
It has been awhile since I have been on the forum as my 2002 G500 has been running well. Last night while driving home I had the loss of power and was able to get my vehicle into a parking area on the side of the road. As I pulled in it died. It would not restart. It would crank and catch for 1/10 of a second and then die. This had happened to me once before in May of 2020 at 104K. Last time after a 20 minute cool down the truck restarted and I was able to drive it home. I replaced the OEM CPS with the Bosch unit.

I thought it was the CPS again this time so I let it cool for 20 -30 mins to the point I could touch the exhaust. Still would crank but not run. So not classic CPS. Truck was towed to the house, sat over night and starts/runs just fine. Classic CPS? The thing that concerns me is the CPS has only been installed for 4 years and 24K miles. Seems early for a failure. No CEL or malfunctions on dash and no codes when checked with a generic OBDII reader. Which suggests CPS or it was just a fluke electrical interruption. Is there a way to check the CPS (ohms or ?) to confirm that it is going bad?

I have a spare one that I can install but it leaves me suspect to take it very far from home. Others things I should be checking?

Thanks
Dave
G4Me]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=25132 http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=25129
The plastic strip has a part number of A4637270211.

I made an all metal version today that should last a long time.

I cut some strips of aluminum from an old clipboard. drilled 2 holes in the appropriate place using the plastic piece as a guide. Then I epoxied some roofing screws thru the hole and fastened it to the rear of the wood trim. The diameter of the steel nail was a bit small, so I added 2 layers of wiring heat shrink tubing to get the correct amount of mounting resistance.

Here are a few photos.]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=25084
I needed two shock towers for a W460. A known design flaw, they rust out.

US$213 all up, parts and shipping. A4603201678 and A4603201778 are the part numbers. I found Mercteil in Latvia to be best price including shipping. €64 each side, plus reasonable shipping. And they arrived within two weeks.
Mercteil.com

As you can see, they have the original MB labels on them, so I recommend Mercteil for those who find the international shipping costs to be too high. See www.mercteil.com

Now, when the weather gets better (it's winter down under), I'll spend a day with the grinder and then a date with my welder, bouncing shock-less to his shop.]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=24194
thanks!]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=24591 1982 280GE LWB W460 RHD
 
The headlights do not work

- no low beam, no high beam
- high beam flasher works so it's not the bulbs or the headlight housing
- parking lights inside the headlight work

Using the colour-coded wire diagram attached, I traced wires and tested them both with a multi-function meter and a light on/off tool. Here's what I found so far:

Fuse Box - no power to 3-4-5-6 (hot side)
Check fuses: Hot (bottom) side of 3-4-5-6 fuses - no power
-> Jumping them with an alligator clip turned the headlights on, but started smoking the wire.
=>Unsure if this was due to thinness or if I was about to damage something.
-> This means the headlights work, and the break is somewhere upstream of fuse box
Headlight Switch - Works
Check the headlight switch
2.5 red wire inbound from alternator 12v - The inbound power is working
2.5 white and black wire outbound with switch on - 12 v - The outbound power is working
Bypassing headlight switch makes no difference, conclude switch is working and not the problem
Multifunction turn signal stalk and cable - No power (but other functions work)
2.5 white and black (looks similar to powered wire at headlight toggle switch - no power
2.5 yellow and 2.5 white at the plug that connects the multi-switch turn signal - no power
This suggests the 2.5 white and thin black wire outbound from the headlight switch is not getting 12v to the multifunction stalk cable. If the white & black cable inbound is the source of power from the headlight, then it must be broken somewhere. There is a connector between such a wire within the dashboard, and this too had no power male or female sides.

However, I do not know if the white/black wire is the one that is supposed to power the yellow and white wires that go to the fuse box and then to the headlights. Unfortunately even with the steering wheel and lower dashboard removed and the fuse box out, I cannot trace the wire from the headlight switch to see where it goes. And logically, it seems unlikely that a wire inside the dash inside the car inside the garage would fail (no evidence of mice). It would be more likely to be a switch or relay, but testing so far does not point to the obvious.

Question: Any idea what's wrong?
Question: Does anyone have a detailed schematic of the multifunction stalk and cable wiring and the connections between it and the headlight switch?
Shade-tree mechanic question: If I cannot find the source of the break, what can I bypass with a new 2.5 wire so the headlights turn on, switch from high to low and optionally flash on?
 ]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=24458
Does anyone know which model these springs are from?
Front has double orange stripe and rear has single orange.

I have G63 now and want to have softer spring but don't want to lower it. Preferably, lift it by 1 inch. I'm in search of the best set of springs.

Thanks in advance!]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=24407 http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=13194
Well, since I have been spending so much "dead in the water" time, I figured I should get some other odds and ends done, including re-conditioning of my Calipers. When I changed the brake pads, I noticed the Dust Caps were a bit trashed, so why not renew things.

Apparently, if there is no rusting of the pistons and caliper bores, then these caliper can be rebuilt "several" times.

Please see the WIS comments about the treatment of Superficial Rust. I was surprised they allow ANY sort of polishing/sanding.

Of course, strict adherence to safety protocol must be observed due to the Mission Critical nature of the brake system.

I used the WIS for this job.

The only "hard" part of the job was removing the Caliper Bolts.

After you are done, bleed the brakes. Here is my DIY for it: http://www.pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.php?tid=12456&posts=2&mid=128353&highlight=photo+diy+brake+bleed&highlightmode=1&action=search#M128353

Personally, I did the RIGHT FRONT first, LEFT FRONT next, just to get the air out of the system, then I RE-DID all Four wheels in the usual RR, LR, RF, LF
pattern.

]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=24188 Hi,
Trying to do more work myself, I invested in the Xentry OBD2 system. Unfortunately after the first use, it never connects to the ECU's. Does anyone have any experience with this product? Their support is pretty much non-existant. If I knew, I would have never ordered it. ]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=24217 I wired them with parking lights, but would rather have them to lightup when key is on.
I tried a suggestion to connect to aux water pump, but mine doesnt get continuous power when key is ON.
Any suggestion ?]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22067
My brother-in-law was visiting, and wanted to take the Bride-of-Frankenstein for a spin.

After only a short drive? The Shifter mechanism is ALL messed-up. Tweeked out of shape, and Loose with a TERRIBLE amount of SLOP!

Here is a video clip of how much Slop in 4th gear: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFR0MlO0l8c&feature=youtu.be

Ok, "probably" a coincidence in a 35 year-old Klunkerwagen.

While planning a Rebuild, I was SHOCKED that there was *NO* Info in WIS, MicroFilsch, etc., in regards to Shifter repair.

I found a blurry post on a W123 site which I used as a general guide, along with EPC. It seems since the truck was built, the Configuration of the Spring Washers has changed. In EPC, it shows ONE of the Spacer Washers to the "Left" of the Shifter Arms, but this makes it Impossible to insert the Woodard Key/Pin thing-y into the Bearing Base. Soooo, I used the Configuration from the W123 post (who supposedly is a Mercedes Master Mechanic).

Anyway, the bottom line is: The Shifter is now Schweeeeeeeeet!! Feeling just like a NEW shifter!!! Sooooo, I guess the Configuration is correct.

The Install is the Exact Opposite of the Un-Install.

G]]>