http://pointedthree.com PointedThree - Mercedes-Benz Diesels http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=24844
Have a 2014 ML350 Bluetec to sell ...]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=19997
I have a 1980 SWB 300GD with the factory non-turbo OM617. This is one of the earlier ones, the VIN ending in 005066.

The original owner did some stupid and cheap fixes to it over the first 20 years of it's life, and now I want to bring it back to glory. Only problem is... it's not starting. It turns over just fine; fuel squirts out of the injectors just fine; air is getting into the newly cleaned air box and intake manifold.

This was a sudden change; one day it was running fine, the next morning, it wouldn't start. I attribute the issue to my own stupidity -- the Glow Plug Relay had been replaced with a manual switch, and I left that switch on when driving for about an hour. The downside... that manual switch was added in addition to a shoddy aftermarket Glow Plug Relay. I think both are fried.

When the tools arrive, I'll be doing a Valve Adjustment and then a Compression Check. But as it was running fine, I'm assuming neither are an issue. I have a maze of cut wires under the hood, and am thinking about redoing all of the electronics.

One of the issues is that my battery (a new RedTop) has been drained over the course of a week as it sits. Something is drawing power out, and I highly doubt it's just that VDO clock in the dash.

Any ideas?

]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=5465 Hi folks! Glad to see many familiar faces (names?) here. I have a question (see subject line) that I thought would be better posed here than on my normal haunt, the G-wagen board. I tried searching, but surprisingly came up empty, even with "search all posts" checked....so here goes.
What are normal pre-turbo exhaust temperatures on a factory set-up 617a engine?
The one I have in my 1980 G now has been "tweaked" and I can bury the 1500 degree gauge (with pre-turbo probe) I have, if I'm determined to do so, but I know that can't be good. I use a "drive by pyro" technique now and hold the temps below 1200, which does mean some downshifting on the long, steep grades I drive every day. But I was wondering how even this compares with what the factory designed the thing to do. I didn't have the pyrometer on this engine prior the recent tweaks, and the motor came to me used anyway, so heaven knows what was done before.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Dave G.]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=4959
The engine has 250,000 km on it and has just had a new injector pump installed as well as new injectors; it's backed up by a 4 speed automatic. I don't want to swap to a 617A just yet (their availability downunder is a limiting factor), also the fact that it's a RHD doesn't make this the best proposition anyhow.

Just trying to put a few more ponies in there so as I can stay at the speed limit (100 km/h) for the slightly undulating trip to and from work?]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22879 Got an 83 W123 wagon with 342k on the clock. 617.952 turbo engine. I have gone through the issue of a shaking engine, and adjusted the rack damper to fix that. (Along with new injectors, regular valve adjustments, etc.) THIS is a different issue. The engine vibrates at idle, hard. It is much worse when in gear and stopped, because of the load from the auto trans.
More Detail: This is not a consistent issue. It is usually worse when the engine temps are higher, such as after getting off the freeway or driving around town on a hot day. On cool mornings, it will usually idle pretty smooth even when in gear and stopped.
I have no power issues above idle. It has a rebuilt turbo, and the 0-60 time is pretty close to the factory spec, and other than the bad idle the car runs good. I get 25 mpg on the highway. However, the exhaust valve on the #5 cylinder has stretched to the point that the adjuster nut is run all the way down and i cannot get anymore adjustment out of it. It may be stretching under high heat conditions to the point where it won't close, thereby rendering #5 down on power, causing the rough idle.
I know that a bad idle can be a symptom of an injector pump going bad, but could one or more stretched or sticking valves cause this issue as well?
Looking for any insight anyone might have on this.
Cheers!]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=13991 http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=22385
Also, do I need to remove the main crank pulley to get the retaining bolt out?

I am not talking about the one on the other side with the slide rail pin. The one I am talking about is curved and pushes against the chain to tension the chain.

Thanks.
]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=21718
Where can I find the MB approved engine oil spec sheet for OM602.961 engine?

Thanks,
Alex]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=18158
also by classes G, E, C, or later class descriptions Large sedans Coupes, etc. And limit them to US available models.

Good luck!!


]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=18106
Anyway I was wondering what the weight differences are on The 606A, 603A, And OM642. I know there where some reliability issues with the 603, is it possible to run 606 heads on a 603, and would a 606a be more efficient then the 603.]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=21115
My car is a 1993 Mercedes 300d turbo sedan, of which I am attaching a picture.

I recently acquire it, and discovered it has not the undertray (under engine) cover, and would like to make one, as they are very difficult to find.

There are to options to consider: a metal one or a plastic one. I am prefering the plastic one due to less weight, and I will add a foam for more noise reduction.

Do some of the more informed members have the dimensions of the under cover?

Looking forward to any help,

Oldbeaver]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=13868 I posted this on the G Class Forum and thought I would give it a try here too ... Thanks!


New Diesels and Old Trucks


In a number of threads the concept of installing a new (Bluetech) diesel in various Gs has arisen. Most often the difficulties in concept that is mentioned seems to be the electronics, not the fit ... So here are several questions I have not found answers too in research elsewhere:
In a new diesel with a manual transmision how much electronic information does the transmission send to engine management?
In a new MB diesel like a 270/280 CDI how much engine management is there that would have to be transplanted if one could source the engine?If these questions are too complex to answer here, then at least a nod in the correct direction would be grand ...
]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=21105
Injectors where replaced by a Mercedes workshop.

When driving with new injectors I have measured a 25% increase in fuel consumption.

Is it required to do some kinf of tuning after replacing injectors?

]]> http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=19504 http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.asp?tid=18417 A 16 year old fairly troublefree BMW turbo diesel.

And have read quite a few major mishaps with the BMW swirl flaps in the intake collector.

Do the current Mercedes CDI engines have these horrible flaps in the intake system?
Haven't read any posts about the subject, so I'm guessing not or they aren't creating any problems.]]>