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Date registered: Aug 2010
Location: Boise, ID
Vehicle(s): 83-280GE, 74-MG GT, 15-KTM 500EXC, 87-GMC Diesel,
|280 Fuel distributer for the M110 engine - swap alloy in for cast iron ?|
Hello: Can you replace a cast iron fuel distributer with an alloy one?
I have a 280GE with the M110 motor. It has a cast iron fuel distributer. The truck has been sluggish for quite some time. After a few fuel pumps I realized that the 40 psi at the distributer is due to the pressure regulator piston in the fuel distributer which does not allow any pressure to build. I actually ruined a 100 psi gauge figuring this out.
I put an alloy distributer on the engine and it runs great. However, when I leave the truck for a period, the fuel pressure bleeds off and then it is extremely difficult to start. The fuel pressure does not bleed off with the cast iton fuel distributer. Does this mean my alloy fuel distributer is bad, or will not work in this application?
When I put in the alloy fuel distributer I did not adjust the idle fuel mixture screw.
So, can the cast iron distributer be replaced by the alloy unit?
Date registered: Oct 2017
Location: Boston, MA USA
Vehicle(s): 300GD, 300TD, 230TE, 450SLC
|Re: 280 Fuel distributer for the M110 engine - swap alloy in for cast iron ?|
...Your CIS system should have a Fuel Accumulator - designed to store pressure in the off duty hours, in part responsible for helping maintain next time start up pressure, and a common fail item - as well as a check valve on the output side of the fuel pump (which could bleed off pressure if faulty). Both would be candidates for examination under your conditions. Be sure to get the EPC for PN accuracy and only change One Thing at a time.
An alloy FD is often a superceeded part available when the cast iron is NLA. However, you really have to know the CIS pressure specs and get those verified and adjusted to what your motor was originally designed to have. Save the mixture screw for the very last.
If you really want to get down by the book, you should first make sure you are getting your true battery voltage at the FP in the rear. This may be academic, but making sure the baseline values are in place pays off downstream.
|#237829 - in reply to #213065|
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