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PointedThree :  Sedan Forums : W210 E Class : Photo DIY- Front Brake Rotor & Pad Change

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Photo DIY- Front Brake Rotor & Pad Change
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Posted 5/21/2016 10:09 AM
G-AMG
G-Class DIY Host




Date registered: May 2006
Location: South Texas
Vehicle(s): '04 G55, '80 280GE, '99 S420, '98 E320, 2011 E350
1000
Photo DIY- Front Brake Rotor & Pad Change

Well.... after 19 Years, and 185,000 Miles.... the ORIGINAL Front Rotors hit the "Minimum Thickness" Range. Pretty Darn Good Run, if I may say so...
I have only changed the front pads ONCE, and the Rear pads? Never!

I opted to go with MB Branded Brake Parts. I have seen, first-hand, that there *IS* a Difference between the M-B branded Rotors, and the OEM Supplier version of the SAME EXACT Rotor. One of my G-Wagen friends down here bought the same ATE part number as the M-B Rotor. It really did not "Look/Feel" right... so he order the M-B version. We had the two side-by-side, and there DEFINATELY was a difference in the Milling, and overall "Heft".

Soooo, since I Always Preach: "There is only *ONE* system on a vechile which matters.... and that is the *BRAKES* !!! You can survive with a failure of just about every other system..." I decided to go First-Class and get another 19 yrs/185K with M_B parts.

Anyhooo, here is the procedure for a 1998 E320 W210.065. Some models differ, so PLEASE check your Repair Manual for your particular version.

Also, *PLEASE* use great care Lifting/Securing Vehicle. DIY Wrenching is NOT worth risking your life over!!

A few Changes since my other posts regarding brake/hub work: The Anti-Seize paste has changed from the "M-B Long Term Grease (aka Castrol OlistaMoly
II) to the Newer version of "Hot Paste" (Castrol Optimal Paste TA), which I think is the same stuff you see on O2 sensor threads. I REALLY like this stuff better than the older style grease in that it is MUCH 'stickier' and does NOT melt/ooze/run like the Olistamoly, so less risk of getting into the Lug Bolt Threads.

I know alot of folks don't like to Press-Back the caliper pistons due to risk of driving "Crud" back up into the ABS components, etc. Well, all I know is THIS is the way M-B WIS recommends it. Plus? Since I bleed my brakes on an ANNUAL basis? I personally don't worry about any "Crud" in there!!
Please also note, I do a FULL Brake Bleeding after Brakework, anyway.

"G"



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#232411
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Author
Posted 5/21/2016 10:48 AM
G-AMG
G-Class DIY Host




Date registered: May 2006
Location: South Texas
Vehicle(s): '04 G55, '80 280GE, '99 S420, '98 E320, 2011 E350
1000
RE: Photo DIY- Front Brake Rotor & Pad Change

And, as with ***ALL*** Brake Repairs, make sure you THOROUGHLY Pump the Brakes, and do THOROUGH Start/Stop Testing PRIOR to Venturing Out onto the Roadways!!!!
#232413 - in reply to #232411
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Author
Posted 5/22/2016 3:22 AM
jmr89



Date registered: Nov 2012
Location: France
Vehicle(s): Class G W463 320Cab V6 >>Ancien 230 GE Cab 1990
100
RE: Photo DIY- Front Brake Rotor & Pad Change

Congratulations and thank you for sharing>>>Bravo et merci pour le partage

____________________________________________________ 

 

#232419 - in reply to #232411
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