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PointedThree :  Sedan Forums : W210 E Class : Photo DIY- Rear Rotor & Pad Installation

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Photo DIY- Rear Rotor & Pad Installation
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Posted 5/21/2016 10:27 AM
G-AMG
G-Class DIY Host




Date registered: May 2006
Location: South Texas
Vehicle(s): '04 G55, '80 280GE, '99 S420, '98 E320, 2011 E350
1000
Photo DIY- Rear Rotor & Pad Installation

Well.... after 19 Years, and 185,000 Miles.... the ORIGINAL Rear Rotor STILL has 1 mm of meat still left on it!

I opted to go with MB Branded Brake Parts. I have seen, first-hand, that there *IS* a Difference between the M-B branded Rotors, and the OEM Supplier version of the SAME EXACT Rotor. One of my G-Wagen friends down here bought the same ATE part number as the M-B Rotor. It really did not "Look/Feel" right... so he order the M-B version. We had the two side-by-side, and there DEFINATELY was a difference in the Milling, and overall "Heft".

Soooo, since I Always Preach: "There is only *ONE* system on a vechile which matters.... and that is the *BRAKES* !!! You can survive with a failure of just about every other system..." I decided to go First-Class and get another 19 yrs/185K with M_B parts.

Anyhooo, here is the procedure for a 1998 E320 W210.065. Some models differ, so PLEASE check your Repair Manual for your particular version. This especially applies to the Rear Fixed Caliper Mounting bolts which come in TWO sizes, M10 (in my case) which is a 55 Nm Torque, and a M12 version (115 Nm, like the Fronts).

Also, *PLEASE* use great care Lifting/Securing Vehicle. DIY Wrenching is NOT worth risking your life over!!

A few Changes since my other posts regarding brake/hub work: The Anti-Seize paste has changed from the "M-B Long Term Grease (aka Castrol OlistaMoly
II) to the Newer version of "Hot Paste" (Castrol Optimal Paste TA), which I think is the same stuff you see on O2 sensor threads. I REALLY like this stuff better than the older style grease in that it is MUCH 'stickier' and does NOT melt/ooze/run like the Olistamoly, so less risk of getting into the Lug Bolt Threads.

I know alot of folks don't like to Press-Back the caliper pistons due to risk of driving "Crud" back up into the ABS components, etc. Well, all I know is THIS is the way M-B WIS recommends it. Plus? Since I bleed my brakes on an ANNUAL basis? I personally don't worry about any "Crud" in there!!
Please also note, I do a FULL Brake Bleeding after Brakework, anyway.

And, as with ***ALL*** Brake Repairs, make sure you THOROUGHLY Pump the Brakes, and do THOROUGH Start/Stop Testing PRIOR to Venturing Out onto the Roadways!!!!

"G"

Edited by G-AMG 5/21/2016 10:46 AM




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#232412
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Posted 5/22/2016 3:26 AM
jmr89



Date registered: Nov 2012
Location: France
Vehicle(s): Class G W463 320Cab V6 >>Ancien 230 GE Cab 1990
100
Re: Photo DIY- Rear Rotor & Pad Installation

Bravo et merci pour le partage
#232420 - in reply to #232412
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Author
Posted 9/2/2016 5:47 PM
bram_r
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2007
Location: the Netherlands
Vehicle(s): 1984 MB 280GE, 1982 MB 300GD, 1986 Subaru XT 4WD
Posts: 1656
1000
Re: Photo DIY- Rear Rotor & Pad Installation

Perfect tools, perfect explanation, perfect job.

Compliments again.
#233750 - in reply to #232412
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Posted 9/5/2016 9:18 AM
NHDave
Extreme Veteran




Date registered: Dec 2013
Location: Seacoast NH.
Vehicle(s): 2004 AMG
Posts: 450
300
Re: Photo DIY- Rear Rotor & Pad Installation

Nicely done Gelandewagen-man
Any interest in relocating to NH Seacoast?
#233777 - in reply to #232412
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