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Changing to Koni SPX front shocks
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Posted 9/6/2012 6:41 PM
Razon



Date registered: Jul 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC
Vehicle(s): 1986 280ge Cabrio, 617A, 5sp manual
500
Re: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

I adjusted mine "sort of " like it sais in the manual.
I did not remove the shock from the truck and mount it in a vice....I just did it while still in the truck. I unscrewed the lower nut, pushed the lower half all the way up, turned it all the way CCW to make sure I'm at the "start" then turned it CW 2 or 3 half turns.

I only adjusted the front end since I have the extra weight from the winch there. The rear I left it at factory settings which based on what other people say...it's full soft.

I never checked their temperature during operation, but I drove thousants of km's at 80-100km on gravel/dirt roads, with a loaded truck, aired down to ~15psi, and the shocks still work fine.
I'm sure they get hot...that's how shocks work: they turn mechanical energy into heat. If they don't heat up, they're not doing much. It's normal for a shock to get warm during operation but not ok for it to overheat to the point of self destruction.
#207085 - in reply to #206763
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Posted 9/6/2012 7:48 PM
AlanMcR
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Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: US, CA, Los Altos
Vehicle(s): G300DT E300DT 230SL
Posts: 3500
2000
RE: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

Same as Razon.  It isn't ideal, but it does seem to work.  I would much prefer a dial that was more field adjustable.  Even a valve buried under a hex plug would be better.  On the plus side, the adjusting system is entirely sealed.
#207086 - in reply to #206763
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Posted 9/7/2012 2:24 AM
DesertStar
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Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: San Diego, CA USA
Vehicle(s): 85-280GE/95-G320/08-G500
Posts: 2156
2000
RE: Clarification from all previous respondents please

hipine - 9/6/2012 3:09 PM I notice in some replies above people talking about setting a "dial" or setting to "soft" or "medium." Looking at Koni's on-line information it seems like the 82xx series SPX shocks like I have use an adjustment sequence that I wouldn't refer to as a "dial", but more the way ONE described doing his. It got me wondering if we all have the same shocks, or if the valving that's in AMZ, Dia, and Alan's shocks might be different from what's in mine and ONE's. Please look at this page: http://www.koni-na.com/adjustment.cfm Is everyone using the adjustment procedure in the center of the page? -Dave G.

 Dave,

I pulled my receipts and purchased the  Koni 8240-1195 SPX and the 8240 1197 SPX.  The adjustments are as described in the link you posted that relate to the 8240 series.  My adjustments/settings mirrors that of Alan...which is who I benchmarked my setting to.

 

Mike





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#207096 - in reply to #207082
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Posted 9/7/2012 12:01 PM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
RE: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

Thanks a bunch for all the follow up. I had a chance to do a more thorough evaluation this morning and the fronts at mid-travel are definitely too stiff in relation to the Doetsch rears. As the Nascar guys would say, its tight goin' in and loose comin' out, the front is too stiff on washboards, and as I roll through a speedbump at around 10-15 mph the difference is very noticeable that the front is stiffer than the rear. I'm going to soften up the fronts some (maybe all the way to full soft since tha's worked for Dai and Michel).

Thanks again! I'll report back soon.

-Dave G.
#207111 - in reply to #206763
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Posted 9/7/2012 4:54 PM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
Re: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

Razon - 9/6/2012 4:41 PM

...I never checked their temperature during operation, but I drove thousants of km's at 80-100km on gravel/dirt roads, with a loaded truck, aired down to ~15psi, and the shocks still work fine...


Great point. Good enough to call it out. Letting the tires help with the overall compliance will reduce the load on a thousand other components in the truck. Whether to reduce tire pressure isn't "only" a matter of whether I have enough traction. It's also something to be considered when asking if I have the right degree of compliance for the driving conditions. Tires are both springs and dampers. How much of each job they do and how they do it is largely determined by the tire construction and the air presure inside. We can't vary the former, but the latter is pretty easy to taylor to the conditions.

Naturally safe travel speeds, steering inputs, etc need to be tailored to the pressures being used, but that's a whole different thread.

Just wanted to say great point to reduce tire pressure when possible to take it easier on the truck on corrugated surfaces especially.

All the best,

-Dave G.

PS - for anyone reading later, if you adjust them in the truck the way Razon says, remember that you'll be rotating the body, not the shaft so be sure to figure out in your head whether you're going in the harder or softer direction depending on where you are when you're looking at the shock. If you lay on your back and look up at the stud end of the shock, then the reference is the same as described above, CW= harder, CCW = softer. But if you're sitting beside the shock looking at it in effect from the rod end, but turning the body instead of the dust cover, then you need to reverse things and turn the body CW for softer and CCW for harder.

Edited by hipine 9/7/2012 5:01 PM
#207127 - in reply to #207085
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Posted 9/7/2012 6:14 PM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
Re: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

ONE - 9/6/2012 4:22 PM

...I could only find a full soft spot where the travel starts - but never an end point or click for full hard - were you able to detect any clicks - stop?...


Yeah there was definitely about 2&1/2 turns between the start and stop point. My goal was to set to mid point. So I went through the whole travel, then back to the beginning and out 1/2 of the total (about 1&1/4 turns). This time I think I might go out only say 1/2 a turn. I decided for some reason I'm not comfy with them being right against the full soft stop, I don't know why.

I can also say that over the last 300,000 miles or so I've gotten comfortable with the truck having what many people would consider a lot of body lean in cornering, etc in the interests of having the shocks pretty soft. Not least of all because the dirt road I live on is always heavily washboarded so dealing with that effectively is just as big a concern as on-tarred-road "handling" which is a generous term for what my truck does.

-Dave G.
#207130 - in reply to #207083
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Posted 9/7/2012 6:24 PM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
RE: Clarification from all previous respondents please

ONE - 9/6/2012 4:32 PM

...Escalante sounds interesting!


It is. I could stay out there for weeks. Anymore I find if I haven't been for a couple years, the pull becomes undeniably strong and even getting close doesn't cut it. I got close last year with significant time on Boulder Mtn and in Kodachrome Basin, but it didn't scratch the itch to be out alone in the sand for a week or so. I think I have to find a way to get out there next year.

-Dave G.
#207132 - in reply to #207084
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Posted 9/8/2012 5:10 AM
512bbi
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Date registered: Jan 2007
Location: North western US and Europe
Vehicle(s): 05G55kge,Range rover classic,clk55amg,ML 430
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Re: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

ONE - 9/6/2012 4:22 PM

hipine - 9/6/2012 5:58 PM

Thanks for sharing. That's good info. I set mine to the mid-point of the adjustment travel starting from full soft. Maybe I should have gone with AMZ's original advice to set them full soft. I might have to drive it around a little as it is then pull them and set them full soft and see how that is. We'll see....


-Dave G.


I had them at full soft at first and felt it was too bouncy. However I have much bigger tires so that might have a big impact.


I could only find a full soft spot where the travel starts - but never an end point or click for full hard - were you able to detect any clicks - stop?

I am about to pull them out again as I suspect that my right front is much softer then my left front.


Having had to drive with the shot shocks for quiet a few more days - it seems that I had killed my steering shock as well - naturally getting horrific wobble.

When I installed the new replacement SPX the wobble was gone. However after the 2 hour shake down run - wobble is coming back


If your shocks wear out you will get more vibes from your steering because of the fact the front red soft springs you run will allow much more movement of thrust angle changes on your front axle.

Your larger wide tires are heavy so you need much more compression forces from your shocks to control your extra unsprung weight.
Changing rebound (extension force dampening ) will not make any difference in controlling your heavy tires.

Koni 90s would work much better with your truck as well as higher rate front springs since the G55k is very heavy at the front .
Take your brush gaurd of for a run and you will see improvement from the spring rate frequency increase.

Dave
If I remember right you got white springs at the front and I do not think you race your truck a ONE does.
At one third from full soft you should have a comfy ride (one and a half half turns) considering you run proper tires that are not too heavy which is fine with the spxs since they are set with out much compression force which makes them ride nice and soft
If there is a little more benefit to have a little extra extension forces is at the front end and there is big differences when you adjust every half turn.

Mario

Edited by 512bbi 9/8/2012 5:15 AM
#207148 - in reply to #207083
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Posted 9/8/2012 8:28 PM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
RE: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

This afternoon I set the spx's to 1/2 turn off the full soft stop and they're perfect! Perfectly neutral steering. Heavy washboards are well tamed without excessive bounce or any harshness, and fast transitions like speed bumps are absorbed without a lot of pitch or bounce. Just right for me and a good match to the Doetsch rear remote reservoir shocks that are still on there. I'm keeping them set this way. It works well for me.

The other job on the list for today was a full hydraulics fluid flush. That went perfectly fine. The only downside was when I thought "as long as I'm in here, I'll adjust the rear brakes." I took the right side drum off to find gunk everywhere from a leaking axle seal. The left one hadn't fouled the shoes yet, but was showing some dampness. So it looks like I'll be calling Steve again on Monday!

Thanks for all the help and advice!

-Dave G.
#207157 - in reply to #206763
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Posted 9/9/2012 11:11 PM
dai
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Oregon USA
Vehicle(s): 300GD 300TD BMW R100RS Landini 80F
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Re: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

Good news, Dave. I'm glad they are set up to match with the Doetsch units you have. I run the Doetcsch shocks on the front of one of the '93 Cummins Dodge 4x4s I farm with and they work great with the HD coil over rears I run. I have Koni's all the way around on the G and they work so well with the rather heavy springs my truck is set up with. Lots of miles and rough stuff. They handle rather heavy loads great, they rock! I wish I had installed them on the truck when I first bought it.

-Dai
#207172 - in reply to #206763
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Posted 9/10/2012 1:04 PM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
Re: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

More varied driving yesterday and things are great for me. It did occur to me while driving yesterday that when I had the Konis at a middle setting, they felt a lot like I remember the Bilsteins feeling. Those are old memories though, so I can't be too sure. But ONE's comments might reflect that a little bit if he set his Konis that way after being used to the Bilsteins. Don't want to read too much in, just giving one more thing for people to think about when they adjust their shocks to be able to get a result that might fit what they're after, more so than what someone else liked. Personally I prefer the full soft setting more like the Doetsch shocks. I agree with Andrew though that it would be nice know what Koni setting might compare with the factory Sachs. I've never driven those.

All the best,

-Dave G.
#207176 - in reply to #207172
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Posted 9/11/2012 12:42 AM
krnnerdboy
Regular


Date registered: Aug 2011
Location: los angeles
Vehicle(s): 02 g500, 640 gran coupe, f30, m6, gt3
Posts: 55
50
Re: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

thanks for all of the feedback, i'm wondering if you ever considered the fox 2.0 external reservoir shocks? They have been working wonderfully for me, and even though I haven't had much time with them in the G, I had a lot of use on them on my tacoma...the truck was used for desert and dune riding at fairly quick speeds, to the point where I bent my frame in half from jumping it. the shocks were perfectly fine the body and frame were not
#207189 - in reply to #206763
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Posted 9/11/2012 1:04 PM
AlanMcR
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Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: US, CA, Los Altos
Vehicle(s): G300DT E300DT 230SL
Posts: 3500
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RE: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

ONE - You mentioned having a dust cover on your Koni's   Are you talking about the metal shield, or did you add some sort of extra cover?
#207198 - in reply to #206763
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Posted 9/11/2012 3:36 PM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
Re: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

krnnerdboy - 9/10/2012 10:42 PM

... i'm wondering if you ever considered the fox 2.0 external reservoir shocks? They have been working wonderfully for me, ...


I've not tried them. But if the specific information on the part numbers, valving, etc aren't already shared here elsewhere, please do share it. If I were you, I'd put it under a separate thread with a more appropriate title so it's easier to find. Be sure to include info about your truck, whether it's lifted, etc, that might impact the aplicability of the part numbers shared, as well as any info you can about how you typically use the truck and what your ride preferences are. I'm sure your info would help a lot of people considering different shocks for their truck. Thanks for piping up!

All the best,

-Dave G.
#207202 - in reply to #207189
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Posted 10/6/2012 1:46 AM
ONE
Veteran




Date registered: Sep 2007
Location: SW
Vehicle(s): G-less at the moment...ford
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100
Re: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

512bbi - 9/8/2012 5:10 AM

ONE - 9/6/2012 4:22 PM

hipine - 9/6/2012 5:58 PM

Thanks for sharing. That's good info. I set mine to the mid-point of the adjustment travel starting from full soft. Maybe I should have gone with AMZ's original advice to set them full soft. I might have to drive it around a little as it is then pull them and set them full soft and see how that is. We'll see....


-Dave G.


I had them at full soft at first and felt it was too bouncy. However I have much bigger tires so that might have a big impact.


I could only find a full soft spot where the travel starts - but never an end point or click for full hard - were you able to detect any clicks - stop?

I am about to pull them out again as I suspect that my right front is much softer then my left front.


Having had to drive with the shot shocks for quiet a few more days - it seems that I had killed my steering shock as well - naturally getting horrific wobble.

When I installed the new replacement SPX the wobble was gone. However after the 2 hour shake down run - wobble is coming back


If your shocks wear out you will get more vibes from your steering because of the fact the front red soft springs you run will allow much more movement of thrust angle changes on your front axle.

Your larger wide tires are heavy so you need much more compression forces from your shocks to control your extra unsprung weight.
Changing rebound (extension force dampening ) will not make any difference in controlling your heavy tires.

Koni 90s would work much better with your truck as well as higher rate front springs since the G55k is very heavy at the front .
Take your brush gaurd of for a run and you will see improvement from the spring rate frequency increase.

Dave
If I remember right you got white springs at the front and I do not think you race your truck a ONE does.
At one third from full soft you should have a comfy ride (one and a half half turns) considering you run proper tires that are not too heavy which is fine with the spxs since they are set with out much compression force which makes them ride nice and soft
If there is a little more benefit to have a little extra extension forces is at the front end and there is big differences when you adjust every half turn.

Mario



@ Mario

I think I have read most of your posts about your suspension setup over the years, and I have to say every one of your statements have always been spot-on with my own observations!
I killed the new set up SPX after the 2hour shakedown test...thinking about trying something else...I know your setup is most likely perfect!
#207986 - in reply to #207148
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Posted 10/6/2012 5:17 AM
512bbi
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Date registered: Jan 2007
Location: North western US and Europe
Vehicle(s): 05G55kge,Range rover classic,clk55amg,ML 430
Posts: 1313
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Re: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

ONE - 10/5/2012 11:46 PM

512bbi - 9/8/2012 5:10 AM

ONE - 9/6/2012 4:22 PM

hipine - 9/6/2012 5:58 PM

Thanks for sharing. That's good info. I set mine to the mid-point of the adjustment travel starting from full soft. Maybe I should have gone with AMZ's original advice to set them full soft. I might have to drive it around a little as it is then pull them and set them full soft and see how that is. We'll see....


-Dave G.


I had them at full soft at first and felt it was too bouncy. However I have much bigger tires so that might have a big impact.


I could only find a full soft spot where the travel starts - but never an end point or click for full hard - were you able to detect any clicks - stop?

I am about to pull them out again as I suspect that my right front is much softer then my left front.


Having had to drive with the shot shocks for quiet a few more days - it seems that I had killed my steering shock as well - naturally getting horrific wobble.

When I installed the new replacement SPX the wobble was gone. However after the 2 hour shake down run - wobble is coming back


If your shocks wear out you will get more vibes from your steering because of the fact the front red soft springs you run will allow much more movement of thrust angle changes on your front axle.

Your larger wide tires are heavy so you need much more compression forces from your shocks to control your extra unsprung weight.
Changing rebound (extension force dampening ) will not make any difference in controlling your heavy tires.

Koni 90s would work much better with your truck as well as higher rate front springs since the G55k is very heavy at the front .
Take your brush gaurd of for a run and you will see improvement from the spring rate frequency increase.

Dave
If I remember right you got white springs at the front and I do not think you race your truck a ONE does.
At one third from full soft you should have a comfy ride (one and a half half turns) considering you run proper tires that are not too heavy which is fine with the spxs since they are set with out much compression force which makes them ride nice and soft
If there is a little more benefit to have a little extra extension forces is at the front end and there is big differences when you adjust every half turn.

Mario



@ Mario

I think I have read most of your posts about your suspension setup over the years, and I have to say every one of your statements have always been spot-on with my own observations!
I killed the new set up SPX after the 2hour shakedown test...thinking about trying something else...I know your setup is most likely perfect!


Guess what controls the springs of this puppy at 175.....
Stock Konis ,no gas ,twin tubes,identical to the 90s only a little smaller.
I just placed threads on them for corner weighting the car and adjust rebound to new springs.
Stock...... made in Holland and dyno tested and recorded on the owners manual at 13 inches per second.......mention that to Bilstein....they do not even test at that kind of speeds.
There is a reason why the best in all of all racing always used Koni..........

Mario



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#207989 - in reply to #207986
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Posted 6/24/2013 3:01 PM
H1LM002G55
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Date registered: Mar 2010
Location: S Florida / Geneva / Jeddah
Vehicle(s): 500 GE, G55, LM002, H1
Posts: 1796
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Re: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

512BBI-

I am going to install the Koni shocks front and rear in my 500GE this week.

The ride quality of the 500GE is much better than the 03 G55, which has the very stiff AMG suspension peculiar to the first of the AMG G55 naturally aspirated trucks.

What should I set my Koni shocks at front and rear to have something "in between" my 500GE and 03 G55 settings? The 500GE M117 motor is heavy as well and I do have the front bumper / brushguard installed.
I am looking for sporting, yet comfortable...If that makes sense. The G55 AMG suspension is great on the early trucks, but when I do have passengers, it is a bit rough for their tastes.

Thanks for your advice.
#215179 - in reply to #206763
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Posted 6/29/2013 12:16 AM
512bbi
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Re: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

H1LM002G55 - 6/24/2013 1:01 PM

512BBI-

I am going to install the Koni shocks front and rear in my 500GE this week.

The ride quality of the 500GE is much better than the 03 G55, which has the very stiff AMG suspension peculiar to the first of the AMG G55 naturally aspirated trucks.

What should I set my Koni shocks at front and rear to have something "in between" my 500GE and 03 G55 settings? The 500GE M117 motor is heavy as well and I do have the front bumper / brushguard installed.
I am looking for sporting, yet comfortable...If that makes sense. The G55 AMG suspension is great on the early trucks, but when I do have passengers, it is a bit rough for their tastes.

Thanks for your advice.


Your G55 rear shocks are your problem with the rough ride and the reason it gets worse with passengers is easy to see if you remove the rear shocks and see for your self.....

The metal dust covers come of on these shocks at the rear.
Inside you will find a rubber spring that rides at ride height slightly compressed and more so with passengers.

It will be a yellow looking helper spring over the shock shaft and it can be removed!

Put the dust cover back on and install the shocks with out the little devil inside.

Your harsh AMG ride will be gone!

Mario
#215308 - in reply to #215179
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Posted 6/29/2013 10:29 AM
H1LM002G55
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Re: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

Good to know.

I adjusted all 4 of my Koni Shocks.

You were 100% correct...they come adjusted a little off of full soft.

I set the rear shocks to "full soft" and cranked them all the way to the left (anti-clockwise).

I set the front shocks a half turn (180 degrees) to the right (clockwise).

I will let you know how I like them. I have only put about 10 miles on them so far....and I need to change my tie rod and get my front end right.
#215316 - in reply to #206763
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Posted 6/30/2013 3:36 PM
512bbi
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Date registered: Jan 2007
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Re: Changing to Koni SPX front shocks

H1LM002G55 - 6/29/2013 8:29 AM

Good to know.

I adjusted all 4 of my Koni Shocks.

You were 100% correct...they come adjusted a little off of full soft.

I set the rear shocks to "full soft" and cranked them all the way to the left (anti-clockwise).

I set the front shocks a half turn (180 degrees) to the right (clockwise).

I will let you know how I like them. I have only put about 10 miles on them so far....and I need to change my tie rod and get my front end right.


For the money the konis are tough to beat.

If one measures carefully the amount of turns from full soft to full hard some times there is a small variation from shock to shock as the mechanism is not a swiss watch but just an adjustable foot valve.
That is why they are adjusted even at the factory.
These shocks can get easily damaged if compressed beyond specs which seems to happen to a few members here.

It is frustrating when you talk to an employee at Koni and they make claims that are false because they are ignorant about their own product.
One of the tricks for accurate adjusting for each pair(of fronts or rears) is to adjust from full hard than full soft so they turn out even,and pay attention to little details as any loose free travel when you change directions(clock wise or anti) to be taken into account when measuring half turns.

The adjust ability is big and so are the changes every half turn
So take out the slack and mark stuff when adjusting .
Truth is if you made one full soft and one full hard on the same axle will could not tell when you drive,it might even feel just right on a G!

Mario
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