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PointedThree :  Vans, Trucks, SUVs and Other Forums : G-Class : Windshield

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Windshield
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Author
Posted 5/21/2017 8:15 AM
Inkblotz
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Georgia
Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo
Posts: 3185
2000
Re: Windshield

Non heated G windshield which has the small sunshade behind the rearview mirror: part # 4606710510
#236126 - in reply to #235121
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Author
Posted 5/21/2017 1:24 PM
oskar
Elite Veteran


Date registered: Sep 2006
Location: Lyons, CO
Vehicle(s): 1981 280GE, 2002 G500, 280SE 4.5, Audi A4 1.8T
Posts: 708
500
Re: Windshield

H1LM002G55 - 5/20/2017 10:16 PM

Master Series is supposedly even better than POR15 according to the real classic car restoration community...better than Rust Bullit, also.


Maybe I'
ll give it a try.
I only have problems with statements like this:

"It also neutralizes the rust, deep within the steel."

Oskar
#236128 - in reply to #236124
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Author
Posted 5/21/2017 6:33 PM
H1LM002G55
Expert




Date registered: Mar 2010
Location: S Florida / Geneva / Jeddah
Vehicle(s): 500 GE, G55, LM002, H1
Posts: 1796
1000
Re: Windshield

I believe it does, because the coating if applied correctly encapsulates the rust and prevents further air exposure which causes the oxidation.

It is recommend that one first use Oxpho Rust and then the Mastercost, finished by base coat-clear coat painting system.


Here is the link to Ospho: http://www.ospho.com

Edited by H1LM002G55 5/21/2017 6:35 PM
#236132 - in reply to #236126
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Author
Posted 5/21/2017 6:51 PM
DUTCH
Administrator Doppelgänger




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: US, GA, Atlanta
Vehicle(s): 2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI,2018 Sprinter
Posts: 9963
5000
Re: Windshield

oskar - 5/21/2017 1:24 PM

H1LM002G55 - 5/20/2017 10:16 PM

Master Series is supposedly even better than POR15 according to the real classic car restoration community...better than Rust Bullit, also.


Maybe I'
ll give it a try.
I only have problems with statements like this:

"It also neutralizes the rust, deep within the steel."

Oskar


As a trained chemist, so do I.
#236134 - in reply to #236128
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Author
Posted 5/21/2017 11:55 PM
oskar
Elite Veteran


Date registered: Sep 2006
Location: Lyons, CO
Vehicle(s): 1981 280GE, 2002 G500, 280SE 4.5, Audi A4 1.8T
Posts: 708
500
Re: Windshield

DUTCH - 5/21/2017 3:51 PM

oskar - 5/21/2017 1:24 PM

H1LM002G55 - 5/20/2017 10:16 PM

Master Series is supposedly even better than POR15 according to the real classic car restoration community...better than Rust Bullit, also.


Maybe I'
ll give it a try.
I only have problems with statements like this:

"It also neutralizes the rust, deep within the steel."

Oskar


As a trained chemist, so do I.


have you heard of "Pelox RE" - it is a "rust remover" based on phosphoric acid. Well known in Germany, I feel it works pretty good. I just cannot/cloud not find a US source. So I imported it. Was a bit on the expensive side as it is hazmat.
Another product I know it this: http://www.bilthamber.com/deox-c. They ship to the US. Deox is working slower than Pelox

Osakr

#236135 - in reply to #236134
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Author
Posted 5/23/2017 11:30 AM
Otiswesty
Administrator




Date registered: Jun 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
Vehicle(s): 463.241, 461.213
Posts: 3004
2000
RE: Windshield

I am using Butyl rubber sealant between the body and rubber. This was recommended by an auto glass guy who is a good friend of mine. Silicone apparently will hold water and can promote rust formation. It is contra indicated, much to my surprise. Here is the butyl product. 3M 8509
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08509-Bedding-Compound-Cartridge/dp/B000PF...

On his recommendation, I will also be priming the edge of the glass and sealing between the glass and rubber with a thin urethane sealant. I will post more info on these products when they arrive.

Edited by otiswesty 5/23/2017 11:31 AM




(3M8509.jpg)



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#236153 - in reply to #235121
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