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G-AMG G-Class DIY Host Date registered: May 2006 Location: South Texas Vehicle(s): '04 G55, '80 280GE, '99 S420, '98 E320, 2011 E350 | Photo DIY- Front Brake Rotor & Pad Change Well.... after 19 Years, and 185,000 Miles.... the ORIGINAL Front Rotors hit the "Minimum Thickness" Range. Pretty Darn Good Run, if I may say so... I have only changed the front pads ONCE, and the Rear pads? Never! I opted to go with MB Branded Brake Parts. I have seen, first-hand, that there *IS* a Difference between the M-B branded Rotors, and the OEM Supplier version of the SAME EXACT Rotor. One of my G-Wagen friends down here bought the same ATE part number as the M-B Rotor. It really did not "Look/Feel" right... so he order the M-B version. We had the two side-by-side, and there DEFINATELY was a difference in the Milling, and overall "Heft". Soooo, since I Always Preach: "There is only *ONE* system on a vechile which matters.... and that is the *BRAKES* !!! You can survive with a failure of just about every other system..." I decided to go First-Class and get another 19 yrs/185K with M_B parts. Anyhooo, here is the procedure for a 1998 E320 W210.065. Some models differ, so PLEASE check your Repair Manual for your particular version. Also, *PLEASE* use great care Lifting/Securing Vehicle. DIY Wrenching is NOT worth risking your life over!! A few Changes since my other posts regarding brake/hub work: The Anti-Seize paste has changed from the "M-B Long Term Grease (aka Castrol OlistaMoly II) to the Newer version of "Hot Paste" (Castrol Optimal Paste TA), which I think is the same stuff you see on O2 sensor threads. I REALLY like this stuff better than the older style grease in that it is MUCH 'stickier' and does NOT melt/ooze/run like the Olistamoly, so less risk of getting into the Lug Bolt Threads. I know alot of folks don't like to Press-Back the caliper pistons due to risk of driving "Crud" back up into the ABS components, etc. Well, all I know is THIS is the way M-B WIS recommends it. Plus? Since I bleed my brakes on an ANNUAL basis? I personally don't worry about any "Crud" in there!! Please also note, I do a FULL Brake Bleeding after Brakework, anyway. "G" (1.jpg) (2.jpg) (3.jpg) (4.jpg) (5.jpg) (6.jpg) (7.jpg) (8.jpg) (9.jpg) (10.jpg) (11.jpg) (12.jpg) (13.jpg) (14.jpg) (15.jpg) (16.jpg) (17.jpg) (18.jpg) (19.jpg) (20.jpg) (21.jpg) (22.jpg) (23.jpg) (24.jpg) (25.jpg) (26.jpg) (27.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1.jpg (75KB - 25 downloads) 2.jpg (84KB - 27 downloads) 3.jpg (95KB - 24 downloads) 4.jpg (83KB - 30 downloads) 5.jpg (73KB - 31 downloads) 6.jpg (114KB - 22 downloads) 7.jpg (85KB - 22 downloads) 8.jpg (98KB - 30 downloads) 9.jpg (79KB - 31 downloads) 10.jpg (61KB - 25 downloads) 11.jpg (65KB - 30 downloads) 12.jpg (85KB - 26 downloads) 13.jpg (68KB - 30 downloads) 14.jpg (87KB - 29 downloads) 15.jpg (78KB - 22 downloads) 16.jpg (97KB - 29 downloads) 17.jpg (64KB - 25 downloads) 18.jpg (65KB - 22 downloads) 19.jpg (96KB - 29 downloads) 20.jpg (79KB - 25 downloads) 21.jpg (91KB - 30 downloads) 22.jpg (107KB - 23 downloads) 23.jpg (80KB - 22 downloads) 24.jpg (87KB - 26 downloads) 25.jpg (62KB - 27 downloads) 26.jpg (70KB - 27 downloads) 27.jpg (80KB - 29 downloads) | ||
#232411 | |||
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G-AMG G-Class DIY Host Date registered: May 2006 Location: South Texas Vehicle(s): '04 G55, '80 280GE, '99 S420, '98 E320, 2011 E350 | RE: Photo DIY- Front Brake Rotor & Pad Change And, as with ***ALL*** Brake Repairs, make sure you THOROUGHLY Pump the Brakes, and do THOROUGH Start/Stop Testing PRIOR to Venturing Out onto the Roadways!!!! | ||
#232413 - in reply to #232411 | |||
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jmr89 Date registered: Nov 2012 Location: France Vehicle(s): Class G W463 320Cab V6 >>Ancien 230 GE Cab 1990 | RE: Photo DIY- Front Brake Rotor & Pad Change Congratulations and thank you for sharing>>>Bravo et merci pour le partage ____________________________________________________
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#232419 - in reply to #232411 | |||
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