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VonEpp
W124 Host
Date registered: Sep 2006
Location: Australia
Vehicle(s): w114, w124 & w460
Posts: 357
| Re: Getting more from my N/A OM617
mtupower - 11/15/2006 12:15 PM
Propane injection does nothing for a N/A diesel.
I'm interested as to your reasoning on this point. |
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ForcedInduction
Regular
Date registered: Sep 2006
Location: Federal Heights, CO
Vehicle(s): 1980 240D 3.0VNT
Posts: 89
| RE: Getting more from my N/A OM617
Propane is a second fuel. You need more air to burn more fuel. NA diesels already use almost all of their available
air at full power (depending on tuning).
Propane fumigation is a waste of money. Just turn up the injection pump, it will have the same results for free.
Edited by ForcedInduction 12/15/2006 4:15 AM
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ROMANO463
Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
| RE: Getting more from my N/A OM617
As your top speed must be like 130 km/h : ( sorry its in italian...but u will see Km/h) , your problem is not power on low rpms, but you must calibrate pump , injectors and verifie moisture .Then u will have correct air diesel moisture and correct explosion time. As your pump and injectors must be bosh , change than will be a good idea ! How long did u use them?
regards and happy 100km/h
Ste
300 GD
Anni produzione: 1979 - 1991
Codice: 460.312 (aperta)
460.332 (Station Wagon)
460.322 (furgone)
sommario
N°cilindri/Disposiz./Valvole: 5/ L / 2
Alesaggio/ corsa (mm): 90.9 / 92.4
Cilindrata cc: 2998
Rapporto finale ant. - post.: 4.86:1.00
Ripartitore: stradale - ridotte: 2.14
Potenza Kw (CV)/ giri/min: 65 (88)/ 4400
Coppia max Nm - giri/min: 172/ 2400
Compressione: 21.0
Alimentezione: Diesel con iniezione a pre-camera, pompa in linea
Trazione: Posteriore/ Anteriore inseribile
Sospensioni anteriori - posteriori: Assale rigido, 2 bracci longitudinali, barra Panhard; molle elicoidali,
tamponi in gomma ,ammortizzatori idraulici, barra stabilizzatrice(anteriori)
Cambio man. - auto: man.4/ man.5/ auto4
Rapporti del Cambio auto : Man.4: 4.63/ 2.46/ 1.47/ 1.00/ R4.35
Man.5: 3.82/ 2.20/ 1.40/ 1.00/ 0.81/ R3.71
Rapporti del Cambio man. - auto : Auto4: 4.01/ 2.39/ 1.46/ 1.00/ R5.50
Impianto frenante: Doppio circuito idraulico, dischi anteriori , tamburi posteriori, freno di stazionamento a mano
Lunghezza, larghezza, altezza: 3945 (10.1987: 3955)/ 1700/ 1960 (aperta: 1975, 10.1987: 1970) mm
Passo mm: 2400
Consumo litri/100Km ECE urbano man. - auto: Man.4: 14.6
Auto.4: 12.6
Consumo litri/100Km 120 Km/h man. - auto: ND
Consumo litri/100Km 90 Km/h man. - auto: Man.4: 11.7
Auto.4: 12.6
Capacità serbatoio Litri: 95
Cerchi - pneumatici: 5.5 JK x 16 - 205 R 16 M+S
Sterzo: a circolazione di sfere
Peso a vuoto/ portata Kg: 1835 (aperto: 1885)/ 565
(aperto: 615)
Volume bagagliaio litri: 250/ 1580
Velocità massima Km/h man - auto: 130/ 130/ 127
N° esemplari prodotti: 20415
Edited by ROMANO463 1/14/2007 8:03 PM
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Boy G
Expert
Date registered: Feb 2007
Location: Bushveld, South Africa
Vehicle(s): Diesel G's: 617A and 602
Posts: 1683
| Re: Getting more from my N/A OM617
Make it breath easier (exhaust and manifold) and fit a 00 cam to it. Use a mirror and read the number stamped into the end of your cam against the firewall (remove tappet cover first!) The 00 cam is normally but not exclusively used on the 617.95 (turbo motors)
If you turn up the fuel delivery you will generate more heat so give it more air first.
If your diff ratio is stock GD300 (4,89:1) then your tyre height should ideally be no more than approx 700mm otherwise high speed beetles fly themselves to death against your rear window while you are driving. Tyre height makes a very big difference to this truck. They are just too underpowered for big feet. Good luck! |
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Chrisgd300
Veteran
Date registered: May 2006
Location: Belgium
Vehicle(s): 86 GD 300 and a few others
Posts: 232
| Re: Getting more from my N/A OM617
Boy G - 3/27/2007 9:46 PM
Make it breath easier (exhaust and manifold) and fit a 00 cam to it. Use a mirror and read the number stamped into the end of your cam against the firewall (remove tappet cover first!) The 00 cam is normally but not exclusively used on the 617.95 (turbo motors)
If you turn up the fuel delivery you will generate more heat so give it more air first.
If your diff ratio is stock GD300 (4,89:1) then your tyre height should ideally be no more than approx 700mm otherwise high speed beetles fly themselves to death against your rear window while you are driving. Tyre height makes a very big difference to this truck. They are just too underpowered for big feet. Good luck!
I agree with Boy G.
The engine likes a bit of rev and your tyre size shouldn't be far from stock if you haven't adjusted diff ratio.
The engine isn't direct injected so much of it's power is made by it's construction.
The injectors get the fuel into the pre-chamber, this then burns it's way to the combustion chamber.
Get all the variables in tune for your specific altitude and that's about all you'll get from the N/A engine.
Need more power, than get another truck.
A G400 cdi would be nice. |
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Fernando BR
Date registered: Jan 2007
Location: Brasil
Vehicle(s): G500/05 300GE/91 300GD/80
| Re: Getting more from my N/A OM617
Its an old thread, but our engines are all nice etern good machines , so there is something that can help VONEPP and i am thinking about, thats to change injection pump to a 617A on , in that way alda as an aneroid will compensate altitude - that is one of alda functions, the turbo conectio can remain free as there is no turbo.
Edited by Fernando BR 5/17/2009 11:59 AM
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emlmcb
Veteran
Date registered: Dec 2006
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Vehicle(s): 1986 LWB 300GD / 1998 E320 / 1996 LWB G300TD
Posts: 119
| RE: Getting more from my N/A OM617
Since Fernando has restarted this thread, I will report my experience:
I did not want to replace my 617 with a 617a, so a couple years ago I followed amzimny's report on what he had done in his engine and did the following with incredible results:
a) Built a perfect (this means all pipes exactly same lenght) 5 to 1 exhaust header.
b) Replaced exhaust pipe with a larger one with fiberglass mufflers.
c) Rebuilt cilynder head with new valves, springs, etc.
d) Polished and ported all intake (manyfold and head)
e) Had injection pump retuned by best service place in town.
The results were just astonishing. I did not dynotest my engine, but I can easily keep pace with other 300GDs with the 617a engine.
I drove the engine with this mods for about 2 years now with nothing but good results. No negative side effects.
Right now I am working on a methanol/water injection system. Will report the results as soon as I start testing it. |
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Fernando BR
Date registered: Jan 2007
Location: Brasil
Vehicle(s): G500/05 300GE/91 300GD/80
| Re: Getting more from my N/A OM617
Eduardo,
Thanks a lot to share your experience . My first step will to have a well cared 617.931 and use it on and offroad. After that i am going to see what to do. Nice to know what you done.
Fernando |
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longtallsally
Regular
Date registered: Dec 2010
Location: Stuttgart, Germany
Vehicle(s): '85 300GD
Posts: 51
| RE: Getting more from my N/A OM617
This is an insanely late reply to a 3 year old thread, but I think everyone missed what was really the guys' problem in the first place: the fact that he was running 33" tires on stock gears.
If you are horribly mis-geared, you're not going anywhere. This would be greatly exacerbated if he had a turbo. The power band of the motor is delivered at the complete wrong time.
As for all the other stuff, I'm a big time noob and just liked learning stuff about the diesel...  |
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Otiswesty
Administrator
Date registered: Jun 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
Vehicle(s): 463.241, 461.213
Posts: 3013
| Re: Getting more from my N/A OM617
You are too right Sally. His big tires are killing his power. The best advice would be to put on stock sized tires as specified in the manual. It may not "look" as aggressive, but the driveability is the issue here. |
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bluegg
Veteran
Date registered: Nov 2016
Location: Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada
Vehicle(s): 1985 300GDT, 2003 Beetle 1.8t S, 1982 F350 SC Dual
Posts: 141
| Re: Getting more from my N/A OM617
Clean. Clean everything fuel and air. Remove plumbing fitting by fitting one pipe at a time and clean. Inspect for cracked or damaged pipes and fittings and replace as seems necessary along with new gaskets and fasteners especially nuts and washers where applicable. Diesels are dirty beasts and hourly mechanics doing regular maintenance hardly check anything nowadays. For LOF you might as well buy the filters and a grease gun and take your sunday every 10K and do it yourself. You save the labour costs of a half a*sed service. You will also see things here and there getting wet or drying out that, with a little toque on the fastener or squirt of oil could save you major expense over the long run. We deal with diluted fuel,oil, coolant. Mechanics that aren't old enough to know what a carb is let alone it's function and proper operation and adjustment. Even dealerships profit if they neglect your warranteed vehicle because you'll be back for more poor service and if not PARTS. |
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bluegg
Veteran
Date registered: Nov 2016
Location: Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada
Vehicle(s): 1985 300GDT, 2003 Beetle 1.8t S, 1982 F350 SC Dual
Posts: 141
| Re: Getting more from my N/A OM617
Clean the piss out of it. Run a purge, adjust your valves, change all fluids and filters. The shut-off solenoid is where the alda is on my diesel and where an ada could be on NA. Make sure any lines to that shut-off solenoid are clean through switchover or wherever they come and go on yours. Injector nozzles could make some difference. |
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