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KERR
Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
| header bolts
You guys will like this, While i was under the truck sunday doing the steering stabilizer i looked to see what else was leaking or bad. I noticed my drives side header the bolt is not tight. Wonder if that could be causeing the check engine light that they keep telling is a 02 sensor. Also how in the world does that lossen up like that?
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Merz-Ben
Extreme Veteran
Date registered: Aug 2006
Location: Floyds Knobs, IN 47119
Vehicle(s): 230G, U1200, U1250 DoKa, U1300L, U1500, U1700, 416
Posts: 377
| RE: header bolts
It might be causing the Check engine light... if there is an exhaust leak. I also seem to remember reading a post somewhere a while back that you had some sort of ticking sound? This post just triggered something in my mind, that ticking could be a tiny exhaust leak that the loose header bolt is causing (had this happen on S and ML class vehicles before). Those nuts are usually lock nuts, so I don't know why it would back off like that unless someone at the factory put the wrong type of nut on there (or someone had it apart at the dealer and installed the wrong nut).
Cheers,
Ben
Edited by Merz-Ben 2/15/2007 12:38 PM
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KERR
Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
| Re: header bolts
very ture. the ticking sound can only be heard from that sound of the car and in the summer time it does not do it.
I might see if i can tighten that up. The dealer has had no reason to that off. The only thing they replaced was two coil packs about 2 years ago, and then when i had the 60K service done they did new plugs.
You can see on the head its leaking. Ill up load it to web shots so you can see a full size picture. that one is hard to see. |
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nadd
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UAE, Dubai
Vehicle(s): G500 2016 LHD, numerous Chevys
Posts: 1285
| Re: header bolts
Very strange! From my experience taking the headers off the 3.0 inline-6, i'd advise being very careful if you try yourself, make sure you use the right size bolt/spanner at the right angle, they are VERY easy to slip/smooth out the sides, and then they will be VERY hard to ever get off (even machining off, with most of the engine in place). Maybe the last person to have it off couldn't tighten it any more without wearing the head smooth so he left it with enough "head" to take off. The head does look oily, strange on these engines, and I thought only 15yr old 6-cylinders do that! At least i'm sure on yours they use a different head gasket, the more modern ones, but I hope it isn't that.
Also try to get a large flat-blade screwdriver between the header and head and see how much it moves, I doubt this would move much if at all, if all the other bolts/studs are in place.
If you do manage to get it off I'd recommend replacing the nut with a new one (from merc only), I tried so many places for a new set of nuts and studs but in the end merc only had the right ones, so don't waste your time (if you're in the uk at least).
The old nuts get soft and slightly smaller than the size 13 they're supposed to be,with corrosion and heating/cooling, hence easier to strip.
I ran my car for a week with 2 nuts off my headers (to try and get copies) and didn't notice a thing (300GE).
You'd notice the oil leakage if it was serious I think..sometimes a little oil adds character (look at my parking spot!) |
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KERR
Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
| Re: header bolts
your right they should be tight enought not to matter but you can see on the head where the heat is fuems are comming out.
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