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| Dr. Rob Veteran Date registered: Nov 2006 Location: Stockholm, Sweden Vehicle(s): 280GE LWB, 280E Ambulance Posts: 216  | ||
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| Inkblotz Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Georgia Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo Posts: 3186  | ||
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| Braingears Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: St Petersburg, FL Vehicle(s): G320 & ML320 Posts: 1450  | ||
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hipine Date registered: Jul 2006 Location: US, CO, Bailey Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A  | ||
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| fernweh Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Calabasas, CA - Centenario, BCS - Luebeck, Germany Vehicle(s): Few Mercedes-Benz, a Toyota Amphibious and a Vespa | RE: Ladder mounting My 463 has a small vent screen on the right rear inside, just large enough to insert your hand and you can feel/locate a very nice sturdy bulkhead. That's the area I have mounted my ladder to it - it never moves, even with my 'slight' weight on it  (IMG_1807.JPG) (IMG_1812.JPG) Attachments ----------------  IMG_1807.JPG (262KB - 9 downloads) IMG_1812.JPG (185KB - 12 downloads) | |
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| Dr. Rob Veteran Date registered: Nov 2006 Location: Stockholm, Sweden Vehicle(s): 280GE LWB, 280E Ambulance Posts: 216 | ||
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| Dr. Rob Veteran Date registered: Nov 2006 Location: Stockholm, Sweden Vehicle(s): 280GE LWB, 280E Ambulance Posts: 216 | Re: Ladder mounting Sorry for delay; it took a while to get that done. Here are a couple of almost-done pics. I wanted to follow the general character of the G, which means no bends or curves-- the car was designed by a guy with a ruler-- and conform to the unusual angles of the bodywork. I think I did okay. The upper fastening was a right betch to do. For some reason I absolutely refused to weld tabs onto the legs; i wanted it clean. Regarding fastening, I used four M8 stainless rivnuts. It is rock-solid as a unit. Specifically, the nuts at ten o'clock and eight'clock positions are in the joint of two overlapping sheets of bodywork metal and are rock-solid. Nut at four o'clock is in cheesy thin sheetmetal, and nut at two o'clock is in better, more rigid sheetmetal. Whatsmore, the nuts have a 1 mm thick flange, so at no point does the ladder actually touch the bodywork- only the four points of the rivnuts. For the rack, I wanted something very utilitarian. Big. Flat. Square. Lots of anchor points. One level, to minimize wind drag. Not some big cage with specialized holders for everything. Not super-duper ultra strong. Just sturdy. Enough to be able to walk on, but not more. So I came up with this.. Size is exactly the same as a standard 4 x8 sheet of plywood. Later i may add some finesse functions such as removeable corner posts, but for the time being, this is it. Not quite done yet, but you get the idea: Edited by Dr. Rob 7/14/2007 2:44 AM (Hpim0492.jpg) (HPIM0496.JPG) Attachments ---------------- Hpim0492.jpg (69KB - 9 downloads) HPIM0496.JPG (117KB - 13 downloads) | |
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| Jonathan Joseph Expert Date registered: Oct 2006 Location: Charleston, South Carolina Vehicle(s): 2004 G55 Posts: 1538 | ||
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| fernweh Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Calabasas, CA - Centenario, BCS - Luebeck, Germany Vehicle(s): Few Mercedes-Benz, a Toyota Amphibious and a Vespa | RE: Ladder mounting You might want to look at these raingutter mounts, for a sturdier roof rack: http://www.pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.php?tid=8223&pos... and also what a Hannibal Racks features - I have heard many complaints about raingutter mount without reinforcements/gussets of any kind Karl Edited by fernweh 7/17/2007 5:22 PM (IMG_1817.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_1817.jpg (130KB - 8 downloads) | |
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