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Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose
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Posted 3/2/2012 10:31 AM
W5YK
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Date registered: May 2006
Location: San Diego
Vehicle(s): 2002 G500, Unimog U2450,
Posts: 543
500
Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

Posting this for reference - it might save someone some sweat. I couldn't find much when I googled this subject.

My 2002 G500 has 150k miles on it, and some of the vacuum hoses at the front of the engine were starting to fall apart. The first clue I got was the Check Engine Light. After much head-scratching, I tracked it down to a crack in one of those vacuum lines that would sometimes leak and sometimes not leak. Very frustrating. After fixing that, ll was good for a few weeks, and the I got another CEL. That turned out to be a crack in the hose going from the bottom of the air intake manifold up to the switchover valve that swings the internal baffles in the manifold. so I figured that would be easy to replace.

WRONG!

It is not replaceable, and unless you know that, it will be difficult to figure it out. So my first tip is this - if you have the idea to change that hose, don't. Chop off the cracked piece and plumb in an extension.

Here's how I screwed mine up;

The place where the hose enters the bottom of the manifold is invisible and inaccessible unless you remove the manifold (don't do that).

I felt around the area blind, and decided the hose must be sitting on a barb like all the other lines. So I pulled hard. It broke, right at the manifold. Big, big mistake. As in $2k.

The hose is glued inside the manifold, and you cannot replace it without removing the manifold from the engine, cracking it open (bad idea), and even then it's difficult. Plan B is to buy a new manifold, which comes with the hose in place. Dumb design if you ask me, it means the life of the manifold is limited by a crappy perishable hose.

When removing the old manifold, one of the secondary air valves broke. I also decided to replace all the rubber. It was nearly $2k at the dealership.

Bonus was that I found quite a few other problems. Including a dead mouse under the manifold.



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#201136
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Posted 3/2/2012 10:44 AM
fernweh



Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Calabasas, CA - Centenario, BCS - Luebeck, Germany
Vehicle(s): Few Mercedes-Benz, a Toyota Amphibious and a Vespa
2000
RE: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

Sorry Richard,

what a stupid thing for MB to design something like this. Thanks for pointing it out to us.

What could be the reason behind it? Is that hose funneled further inside the manifold, to obtain a certain vacuum?

Would have it been possible to adapt or install a barbed fitting for a new hose, instead of buying such an expensive part?

Karl
#201137 - in reply to #201136
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Posted 3/2/2012 12:30 PM
DesertStar
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: San Diego, CA USA
Vehicle(s): 85-280GE/95-G320/08-G500
Posts: 2156
2000
RE: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

When I replaced the vacuum hoses on my 93 400E at around 150k, I had similar issues of CEL light and aging vacuum lines off and on as well as the hard lines cracking when you touch them.  I found the rubber vacuum connections to appear OK, but further investigation would show small cracking that would expand when warm and lose vacuum while when cold would hold vacuum.

I hate those simple pro-active maintenance projects  of which you think will take an hour to do turn into a disabled vehicle waiting for a part. Thanks for the heads up.

Mike

 

#201140 - in reply to #201136
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Posted 3/2/2012 1:08 PM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
RE: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

So Richard,

With 20/20 hindsight, knowing what you know now, what specifically would you have done instead?

One thought I have is to cut the rest of the hose where it looks like the one in the picture is breaking and fit bigger hose over the outside diameter of both pieces to serve as a sort of coupling. This would still be very difficult to do blind.

Maybe I've got it wrong but that area appears to be near where the exhaust crosses over at the back of the engine. It must get very hot and be murder on rubber parts. You're right, every single G owner will face this issue at some point in the life of the vehicle I think. Might be an opportunity to think about an upgrade to a silicone hose to put it to bed? I don't know.

Any thoughts?

-Dave G.

#201141 - in reply to #201136
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Posted 3/2/2012 2:04 PM
AlanMcR
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: US, CA, Los Altos
Vehicle(s): G300DT E300DT 230SL
Posts: 3500
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RE: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

I was thinking on similar lines.  Perhaps just cutting off the hose at the surface of the casting and inserting a smaller metal tube to route the vacuum up to a more accessible place.  The leftover rubber would act as a nice seal if the tubing diameter were chosen carefully.
#201145 - in reply to #201136
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Posted 3/2/2012 3:39 PM
DUTCH
Administrator Doppelgänger




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: US, GA, Atlanta
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RE: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

W5YK - 3/2/2012 10:31 AM
I felt around the area blind, and decided the hose must be sitting on a barb like all the other lines. So I pulled hard. It broke, right at the manifold. Big, big mistake. As in $2k.


Interesting. That P/N A.113.140.07.01 has an MBUSA MSRP of $1350. Can be had from the right source for $1008. Of course that doesn't include the gaskets and the tubing.

FWIW, the tubing - intake manifold to electric changeover valve - is shown on the EPC as a separate part (A.000.276.00.30), available by the meter.
#201148 - in reply to #201136
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Posted 3/2/2012 9:23 PM
fernweh



Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Calabasas, CA - Centenario, BCS - Luebeck, Germany
Vehicle(s): Few Mercedes-Benz, a Toyota Amphibious and a Vespa
2000
RE: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

DUTCH - 3/2/2012 12:39 PM

W5YK - 3/2/2012 10:31 AM
I felt around the area blind, and decided the hose must be sitting on a barb like all the other lines. So I pulled hard. It broke, right at the manifold. Big, big mistake. As in $2k.


Interesting. That P/N A.113.140.07.01 has an MBUSA MSRP of $1350. Can be had from the right source for $1008. Of course that doesn't include the gaskets and the tubing.

FWIW, the tubing - intake manifold to electric changeover valve - is shown on the EPC as a separate part (A.000.276.00.30), available by the meter.


Dutch,

I have just talked to my MB contact and he confirmed the fact that that vacuum hose is "molded" into the intake manifold. He doesn't know the reason for sure, but thinks that the hose goes up higher inside the manifold.

Richard,

is it possible and would you do crack open the manifold assembly to see and take some pictures of the culprit and its secret routing/location?

Karl
#201151 - in reply to #201148
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Posted 3/2/2012 9:48 PM
W5YK
Extreme Veteran




Date registered: May 2006
Location: San Diego
Vehicle(s): 2002 G500, Unimog U2450,
Posts: 543
500
Re: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

Yes, the manifold itself is $1350. But you will probably have to add two new secondary air valves, because the old ones will not come off the old manifold, or they will break in the attempt. $225 each. Throw in some new hoses, gaskets, seals, etc, and some CA sales tax, and I was out the door at $2048. Looking at the manifold, I am kind of surprised the Merc only charges $1350, it is quite a piece of engineering.

I know they show that hose as a separate part in the EPC, and that had me fooled. It is indeed that part number of hose that they sell by the meter, but you cannot replace it yourself without major surgery.

Photos to follow.


Edited by W5YK 3/2/2012 10:02 PM
#201152 - in reply to #201136
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Posted 3/2/2012 10:01 PM
W5YK
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Date registered: May 2006
Location: San Diego
Vehicle(s): 2002 G500, Unimog U2450,
Posts: 543
500
RE: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

Here is pic of the broken off hose. You don't get such a nice view when the manifold is on the engine, it is "up and under".

If you crack the manifold open, you can't actually see into that rectangular part where the hose goes. But there is a barb about 30mm up inside, that seems to go into the top chamber, and the rectangular part is completely filled with RTV or something like that.

So you could maybe push a hose onto the barb and seal it up, without cracking the manifold open. Maybe.

Probably my best option once I broke the hose would have been to remove the manifold and ream out the RTV enough to push a barb into it.

When the manifold is on the engine, you just can't do anything, you can just about feel where the hose is, but you couldn't do any repairs there.

Looking at the hose that came off, I should have just left it alone, and spliced a new length onto it. The cracked part was at the other end. They all tend to crack at the end of the barb they are pushed onto.



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#201153 - in reply to #201136
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Posted 3/2/2012 11:00 PM
W5YK
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Date registered: May 2006
Location: San Diego
Vehicle(s): 2002 G500, Unimog U2450,
Posts: 543
500
M113 Engine Air Intake Manifold G500 CL500 CLK500 E500 S500 SL500 ML500 CLS500

Here's some pics of the inside of the manifold. In the second photo you can just about see in the center the hole where the hose comes in. It goes about 30mm up into a tiny little barb on the other side of that little triangular plate.

To get to the barb you would need to pull the internals apart, and they are glued together, so I'm not sure how you would do that.

I tried to push the hose on from outside, and it is not possible. There is too much distance.

I would not recommend cracking open the manifold to do a repair. It does not look possible.

I assume there is something important about where this hose gets its vacuum from, or they would have just put it onto an external barb like all the other vacuum consumers. This hose supplies an actuator when the RPMs go over 3500, and I guess vacuum is in short supply at that speed so they have to get from the best spot. They must have had some reason for it, so I suspect you can't just hook this particular hose to one of the other barbs.

Edited by W5YK 3/2/2012 11:09 PM




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#201154 - in reply to #201136
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Posted 3/3/2012 8:00 AM
nadd
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Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UAE, Dubai
Vehicle(s): G500 2016 LHD, numerous Chevys
Posts: 1285
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Re: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

Thanks for the post - I'm glad I looked here today!
#201161 - in reply to #201136
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Posted 3/3/2012 8:17 AM
Inkblotz
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Date registered: Apr 2006
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Re: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

Richard
Where on the inside does the line connect? I ask this to see if you can you feed a short hardline piece (perhaps brakeline hose or something with similar diameter in through the hole and connect the internal hose to one end and external hose to the other.

OR you can simply buy one of these used Manifolds on EBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-W220-MERCEDES-BENZ-S500-INTAKE-MANIFOL...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INTAKE-MANIFOLD-AIR-Mercedes-W163-ML430-E43...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-OEM-00-W220-S500-S430-Intake-Manif...

Mark
#201162 - in reply to #201136
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Posted 3/3/2012 9:36 AM
W5YK
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Date registered: May 2006
Location: San Diego
Vehicle(s): 2002 G500, Unimog U2450,
Posts: 543
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Re: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

I like the ebay prices, especially that second one. It even includes the fuel rail, injectors, braided fuel hose, EGR pipe, secondary air injectors, and the electric throttle. The Merc price for all those parts new would be well over $4000, and he is selling it for $399. If I was doing it over I would go to ebay. Well spotted Mark.
#201166 - in reply to #201136
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Posted 3/3/2012 1:39 PM
fernweh



Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Calabasas, CA - Centenario, BCS - Luebeck, Germany
Vehicle(s): Few Mercedes-Benz, a Toyota Amphibious and a Vespa
2000
RE: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

Thank you Richard!

What is the actuator moving? I can see it definitely had worked on your engine. Can you see what is being closed or opened?

Karl
#201170 - in reply to #201136
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Posted 3/3/2012 2:04 PM
nadd
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UAE, Dubai
Vehicle(s): G500 2016 LHD, numerous Chevys
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RE: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

fernweh - 3/3/2012 6:39 PM

Thank you Richard!

What is the actuator moving? I can see it definitely had worked on your engine. Can you see what is being closed or opened?

Karl


I think that's for the dual-length intake manifold, lower rpms get a longer tract for better torque, while it is shortened at higher rpms to maximize airflow.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_M112_engine

If that system went haywire due to a faulty vacuum reading it must be pretty bad for driveability, perhaps that is why the connection is so robust.
#201171 - in reply to #201170
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Posted 3/4/2012 9:48 AM
fernweh



Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Calabasas, CA - Centenario, BCS - Luebeck, Germany
Vehicle(s): Few Mercedes-Benz, a Toyota Amphibious and a Vespa
2000
RE: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

nadd - 3/3/2012 11:04 AM

fernweh - 3/3/2012 6:39 PM

Thank you Richard!

What is the actuator moving? I can see it definitely had worked on your engine. Can you see what is being closed or opened?

Karl


I think that's for the dual-length intake manifold, lower rpms get a longer tract for better torque, while it is shortened at higher rpms to maximize airflow.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_M112_engine

If that system went haywire due to a faulty vacuum reading it must be pretty bad for driveability, perhaps that is why the connection is so robust.


Thank you,

I thought something along that line..... good to know!
#201188 - in reply to #201171
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Posted 3/4/2012 10:35 AM
nadd
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
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Vehicle(s): G500 2016 LHD, numerous Chevys
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Re: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

I don't think MB publicize the tech on these engines too much, but you can certainly feel the kick in the back when RPM rises rapidly in the G500 in lower gears.
#201191 - in reply to #201136
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Posted 3/4/2012 2:45 PM
Roly
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Date registered: Apr 2006
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RE: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

The operation of the manifold is explaned a bit on the attached file. The actuator is controlled by the ECU with vacuum being supplied by the rubber hose. But the vacuum must vary as the different passages are opened and closed. I wonder how it is connected?



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#201195 - in reply to #201136
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Posted 3/4/2012 5:16 PM
fernweh



Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Calabasas, CA - Centenario, BCS - Luebeck, Germany
Vehicle(s): Few Mercedes-Benz, a Toyota Amphibious and a Vespa
2000
RE: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

Roly - 3/4/2012 11:45 AM

The operation of the manifold is explaned a bit on the attached file. The actuator is controlled by the ECU with vacuum being supplied by the rubber hose. But the vacuum must vary as the different passages are opened and closed. I wonder how it is connected?


Much cleaner manifold than Richard's....

I would think the closed position is achieved with the vacuum, so the ECU controls the RPM range via the solenoid and in the mid rpm range the vacuum is high to close the flaps.

Karl

Edited by fernweh 3/4/2012 5:16 PM
#201197 - in reply to #201195
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Posted 12/13/2020 4:58 PM
imjustdave
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Date registered: Feb 2012
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Re: Air Intake Manifold vacuum hose

Has anyone come up with a solution for this? I have the dreaded broken line at this point

I think I'm going to be sick

I assume the G is undriveable at this point.
#242273 - in reply to #201136
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