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Adoni
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Vehicle(s): '00 G500, '15 C300 4Matic, '06 L322 G4
Posts: 1283
| Going Nuts
So recently I've had problems with the G either idling out and dying or sometimes dying under full go. I though I found the root of my cause when I replaced the Fuel pump and fuel filter. Car ran well for a few days and then bam it started again. One day the car will run, the next day it wont. Last night I thought Id test my luck driving the car to get some ice cream...didn't even get out the front gate, car started then just quit, I tried to restart the car, and it would turn over then nothing, again i would try, and then again. then I would push the car a few feet wait and try again, it would start for a split second and putter out, I would give it some gas hoping to rev it up and get it running but it would just die. At one point I could heare the starter spinning when I turned the key but the car wasnt going to start. Is there a possibility that I may also need to replace the fuel relay as well? Im pretty sure the pump was shot because I isolated it and noticed it stopped, gave it a little whack with a hammer, it started, then it stopped, thats why I figured it was just the pump and hoping it was just the pump. Could anyone please opine if this sounds like a relay problem, or maybe something else? The timing seems to be ok, but I'm pulling my hair out on this. The only other thought I have is that about 2 months ago my mechanic replaced the throttle linkage since mine was damaged, the car wouldnt kick down into first gear under full acceleration off the line. However, I'm also having problems getting the car all the way down into first. Is this only possible in 4-wheel drive? I can't remember, but I'm pretty sure I've engaged first gear in 4 -wheel drive before, but never needed to do so in 2-wheel drive. Please help. |
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dai
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Oregon USA
Vehicle(s): 300GD 300TD BMW R100RS Landini 80F
Posts: 2110
| Re: Going Nuts
First check the voltage. Make sure the voltage regulator is working correctly. If the rectifier is shot or the regulator is not working correctly you can get bizzare symptoms you describe. This is done with a voltmeter. Connect the red (positive) to the positive of the battery and the black to negative. Get a read on the battery voltage without starting the motor. Should be 12.5 or more volts with a charged healthy battery. A sealed battery will read 13+. Start the motor and watch the meter; it should jump up around a volt. If there is no change you have a charging system issue. If it shows a rising voltage above 14.5 or more moving higher it is overcharging and could be contributing to your gremlins. Voltage regulator/rectifier problems can cause wierd, hard to diagnose running (not running) issues. Eliminate that as a cause: an early step in your troubleshooting. I check this first with misbehaving gas burners.
-Dai |
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Greeney
Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
| RE: Going Nuts
Go to the tank access inside the back door and remove the screws under this is the tank sender this can be tapped anticlockwise to withdraw, it is possible the filter on the bottom is blocked with black sludge especially if the filters and pump were blocked too Ihave photo of how mine was if i could work out where to putit on here  |
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gwagen460swb
Extreme Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Vehicle(s): 280GE SWB, Toyota Highlander, BMW530i, RR HSE
Posts: 513
| Re: Going Nuts
I had the same thing happen to me three weeks ago. Was your radio running as well as other electrical components? If yes, then issue is not battery.
In addition to my fuel filter needing replaced, I found out I had a clogged fuel line. I had some fuel hose/line fittings replaced as well. Also, my accordian hose connecting my air intake and overhead air filter came loose. I had to have that reclamped.
If you need a detailed recap of what happened as well as information for your mechanic, you can call my mechanic Alfred at Sherwood Imports at 501-833-3000. |
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ehdenoffroad
Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
| Re: Going Nuts
Have u been off roading lately? It happened to me once, and it was because mud went into the fuel tank. Check out your fuel filters, pumps, if there's a sign of sand/mud in the filters, dismount the reservoir.
That 's only an opinion.
Regards |
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gwagen460swb
Extreme Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Vehicle(s): 280GE SWB, Toyota Highlander, BMW530i, RR HSE
Posts: 513
| Re: Going Nuts
Also, when was the last time your spark plugs were inspected or changed? I had my spark plugs checked to make sure they were okay and to make sure misfiring was not taking place. |
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nadd
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UAE, Dubai
Vehicle(s): G500 2016 LHD, numerous Chevys
Posts: 1285
| Re: Going Nuts
As I learnt recently from wiser members, the fuel pressure accumulator also sometimes can cause such problems, if the diaphragm inside is broken, it will return fuel to the tank (path of least resistance) instead of letting it get to the engine. Not sure if the 280 engine has it, but if you do, and you've changed the pump and filter, that would definitely be worth troubleshooting. Remove the return line from the accu to the tank and run the pump only (not engine) and see if any fuel comes out of the line. Apparently if you get fuel, that means the accu is shot. roughneck solved his problem with a foul-running 280 by cleaning out the tank (after replacing the pump and filter), it was full of dirt, and remember injectors have pretty fine tolerances.
Edited by nadd 6/22/2006 5:54 PM
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DUTCH
Administrator Doppelgänger
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: US, GA, Atlanta
Vehicle(s): 2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI,2018 Sprinter
Posts: 9963
| No Carburetor on an M110
Ze Bocaina - 6/22/2006 7:32 PM
I think there is an oil filter in the carburator.
Unless something is being lost in translation, there is no oil filter OR carburetor on a 280GE's fuel injected M110 engine. |
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DUTCH
Administrator Doppelgänger
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: US, GA, Atlanta
Vehicle(s): 2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI,2018 Sprinter
Posts: 9963
| RE: No Carburetor on an M110
The M110 has the fuel filter shown in your lower photo. The M110 does not have a carburetor, so there is no oil level to be maintained as described with the upper photo. The oil level discussed must be for a carbureted 230G - I don't remember the engine number. |
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Adoni
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Vehicle(s): '00 G500, '15 C300 4Matic, '06 L322 G4
Posts: 1283
| Re: Going Nuts
So, recently, I've been thinking, back when my starter fried, and end up having to use the old hammer to the starter trick to get it to the mechanics, I fiddled with the coil on the distributor cap, I twisted it, which I know is a no-no, and now I'm wondering if my twiddling advanced the timing on my car. I would think that was the problem, except for the fact that this dying problem has actually been a slow progression that has gotten worse since that time. As of now, the car will not start, it will kinda rumble for a moment when i turn it over, and sometimes I get a back fire. After a few attempts at trying to start the vehicle, there is definitely a distinct smell of gasoline under the hood. I'm not nearly a good enough shade tree mechanic to set the timing correctly on the vehicle or to really even check, getting the first cylinder to dead center would probably take me a full day and a half. From what I can tell, the spark plugs were changed about 35k to 40k miles ago, so they should still be good, whether the gaps are all sorts of ****** I don't know. On a side note, while checking out my fuse box I found a nut and washer on the drivers side floor mat. It looks like the type that might be used for grounding but after 10 minutes under the dash with a flash light I could find no place where it might go except to secure the fuse box to the underside of the dash, one of the two screws that attaches the fuse box to the metal on the underside of the dash is missing. Oh the joys of gremlins... |
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dai
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Oregon USA
Vehicle(s): 300GD 300TD BMW R100RS Landini 80F
Posts: 2110
| Re: Going Nuts
If you turned the distributor then it probably is out of time. Get a timing light and correct it. Timing is simply making sure the #1 cylinder is syncronized with the correct timing mark on the flywheel illuminated with the strobe of the timing light at a specific low RPM. A simple easy thing to do. You loosen the distributor and turn it to get it right. When it is correct tighten the hold down to keep it there. Advanced or retarded timing will make it run badlly and do the things you say your machine is doing. This is a 10 minute job for an experianced mechanic.
-Dai |
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