As Dutch points out, this square-bodied lamp is the one that's commonly available from Hella now, and no problem to get.  If I decide to get one like this I can order it up from any of a number of US Hella distributors.  What I'm really after is the one that came OEM in the 460 G's.  It has the same flexible neck, but the end with the bulb is cone-shaped with the bulb shining out the wide end of the cone.  Even lamps that LOOK like that are easy enough to get.....I have one at home as a matter of fact.  But the rub comes in with how the lamp is switched on and off.  The ones in the G were switched on and off by twisting that conical shade.  Ones that are out there now, and the one that I have at home, are switched with a button on the base, or other switch in some remote location.  I really like the elegance of twisting the shade to turn the lamp on or off.  It's the most natural thing in the world to grab the shade end of the lamp to position it, and while you're doing that, your hand is already positioned to turn it on or off.  In this respect the square-head Hella lamp are better than some others because at least the square ones have the switch on the lamp head, not down on the base.

Do you see what I'm getting at?

If anyone has a spare flexible stalk map light or two from a 460 G, I'd be interested.  I keep coming up empty trying to find this exact configuration anywhere else.  I'm back to my original idea that Hella, or maybe even MB held a patent on that twist-the-shade switch.

-Dave G.

PS - There was a program on TV the other night where some guys on motorcycles drove the route across southern UT and northern AZ that I would have proposed you take between Mesa Verde and Death Valley.  Cheryl said, "Wow, that looks like a great road!" and I said, "Yeah, that's the one I wanted [AMZ] to take, but he HAS to go to the Grand Canyon!"

The 13.0530 one looks like one of the ones that Roughneck posted pix of.  That one's interesting in it's variable intensity feature.  I'll bookmark this thread for future reference if I come up empty on finding an original G type.

Thanks again!

-Dave G.

You mean the one numbered 15.030 in your last post?  Yes, I think Roughneck posted some pix of ones like that in a truck he has.  I have to admit I do like the variable intensity control that one affords.  Maybe I should get some like that.  Roughneck offered to send me some "authentic" used ones he has, but it would probably be cheaper for me to contact the supplier here in the states for new ones than to ship used across the pond.

My question for YOU sir is that I would like some more detail on which model of espresso maker you have that can run off a 1200W inverter.  The automatic machine in my house is over 1800W and as much as I LOVE the espresso it makes, I couldn't justify the extra batteries I'd need to take it along.

A while back you mentioned that you carried an electric machine and used the Bialetti for back-up.  While I've been having fun wringing the maximum performance out of the bialetti, It still makes "strong coffee", not espresso.  So, if you have a moment, let me know which model of electric machine you use in the G.

I'll have to contact Premier Power for one of their mega-alternators one of these days if I keep up in this manner.  Look what I heard about the other day:

http://www.shop.com/op/~Athena_6900_Max_Burton_Stove_To_Go-prod-18123928

On an unrelated note, others might find THIS useful:

http://www.usfreeads.com/472071-cls.html

-Dave G.

You may be right, but "vintage" isn't worth $175 to me!

It does look like the same light though, doesn't it?

-Dave G.

ps - try again with your picture sizing!

Yep!  That's the Bialetti mentioned above that we both carry already.  I've discovered with that one that in addition to all the regular "stuff" important to pulling a good shot, the little Bialetti definitely works differently depending on the heat source.  This little guy was just MADE to be blasted by my little "jet engine" of a Svea 123.  The Bialetti and the 123 is a match made in heaven.  The 123 jams heat into that little pot fast enough to raise steam pressure quickly and keep it high, right at the brink of popping the valve.  Without a pump to maintain pressure  significantly above atmospheric (and the resulting steam temperatures that allows), brewing above 10,000 ft is chancy at best.

Maybe I need to retrofit my little Bialetti with an adjustable pop-off valve for high altitude brewing......

Then I could wind the steam pot with stainless steel wire to keep it from exploding.....

Then I could......  :ohno:

Thanks guys!

-Dave G.