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Dynamat
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Posted 3/12/2007 8:08 PM
AsianML

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
Dynamat

For those of you who have done Dynamat, is it a complete difference, like Camry to E-Class? Also, because you can only do so much of the ML in Dynamat, how much more are the other noises more noticeable? Up to the point of being annoying? Like how is the wind noise now that the Dynamat is in? It seems like I'd be very annoyed that the rest of the car is quiet, but there are places that I can't do a darn thing about it where noise is getting in.
#66737
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Posted 3/12/2007 9:37 PM
cmitch
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Ala-Tenn
Vehicle(s): 2002 ML320, 2005 S430 4Matic, 2010 F150 Super Crew
Posts: 3412
2000
RE: Dynamat

I found a load of that stuff at a warehouse sale store. It was obvious that they bought a lot of Toyota stuff and this stuff was cut to fit in certain areas. If you used it, it would look like a Jig Saw puzzle when you were done because you'd have to cut out pieces you couldn't use.
#66745 - in reply to #66737
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Posted 3/12/2007 11:45 PM
storm

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
Re: Dynamat

i used brown bread sound deadening in my honda and it made a HUGE difference, i never really thoght the ML needed it (then again i only had it for about 2 weeks)
#66757 - in reply to #66737
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Posted 3/13/2007 6:42 AM
Marcelc

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
RE: Dynamat

AsianML - 3/13/2007 1:08 AM

For those of you who have done Dynamat, is it a complete difference, like Camry to E-Class? Also, because you can only do so much of the ML in Dynamat, how much more are the other noises more noticeable? Up to the point of being annoying? Like how is the wind noise now that the Dynamat is in? It seems like I'd be very annoyed that the rest of the car is quiet, but there are places that I can't do a darn thing about it where noise is getting in.


Yes, it is a complete difference, although Dynamat in the doors is not the only thing that needs doing, I've even put sound deadenening material above the headliner. My ML purrs along up to 60mph and listening to the radio or music is great (if I were to own up to being cynical I would say that it is even quieter than my house ), wind noise becomes obvious above 80mph.

It is the best mod that I have done.

I know what the answer will be but, if you wish, I'll endeavour to detail all the sound deadening mods I made.



#66782 - in reply to #66737
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Posted 3/13/2007 9:56 PM
roadsession

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
RE: Dynamat

i put dynamats on - but on the metal frame part of the door (that is covered by existing factory plastic sheeting). Did I put it on wrong? Should it have gone in on the inside skin of the metal door or on the inside of the plastic trim...
#66881 - in reply to #66782
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Posted 3/14/2007 2:38 PM
Marcelc

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
RE: Dynamat

roadsession - 3/14/2007 2:56 AM

i put dynamats on - but on the metal frame part of the door (that is covered by existing factory plastic sheeting). Did I put it on wrong? Should it have gone in on the inside skin of the metal door or on the inside of the plastic trim...


I think what you did was correct but you could have put some on the inside of the outer skin also, I put some cellulose wadding on the inside of the door cladding to soak up noise there but I think the most benefit comes from Dynamat where you put it and also on the inside of the outer skin.

I also found that the window seal was not long enough which caused noise to rise from inside the door and reflect off the glass directly into my ear, the seal I mean is the seal along the top of the door, I plugged the gaps by packing some old door seal rubber off another car into each end; this cut treble noise significantly.

My testing method was to park the car with the engine off and with all doors and windows closed, I placed a cheap and tinny sounding transistor radio playing squeaky music outside the car and checked where I could identify ingress of noise. I put the radio at various places round the car, by the front of the doors seemed a good place.


#66915 - in reply to #66881
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Posted 3/15/2007 8:26 PM
roadsession

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
RE: Dynamat

Marcelc - 3/14/2007 2:38 PM

roadsession - 3/14/2007 2:56 AM

i put dynamats on - but on the metal frame part of the door (that is covered by existing factory plastic sheeting). Did I put it on wrong? Should it have gone in on the inside skin of the metal door or on the inside of the plastic trim...


I think what you did was correct but you could have put some on the inside of the outer skin also, I put some cellulose wadding on the inside of the door cladding to soak up noise there but I think the most benefit comes from Dynamat where you put it and also on the inside of the outer skin.

I also found that the window seal was not long enough which caused noise to rise from inside the door and reflect off the glass directly into my ear, the seal I mean is the seal along the top of the door, I plugged the gaps by packing some old door seal rubber off another car into each end; this cut treble noise significantly.

My testing method was to park the car with the engine off and with all doors and windows closed, I placed a cheap and tinny sounding transistor radio playing squeaky music outside the car and checked where I could identify ingress of noise. I put the radio at various places round the car, by the front of the doors seemed a good place.




wow, are you an engineer or what!
That's fantastic.

do you mean the door seal on the door or on the car body itself?
pics would help...:-)



#67081 - in reply to #66915
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Posted 3/16/2007 5:50 PM
Marcelc

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
RE: Dynamat

roadsession - 3/16/2007 1:26 AM

Marcelc - 3/14/2007 2:38 PM

roadsession - 3/14/2007 2:56 AM

i put dynamats on - but on the metal frame part of the door (that is covered by existing factory plastic sheeting). Did I put it on wrong? Should it have gone in on the inside skin of the metal door or on the inside of the plastic trim...


I think what you did was correct but you could have put some on the inside of the outer skin also, I put some cellulose wadding on the inside of the door cladding to soak up noise there but I think the most benefit comes from Dynamat where you put it and also on the inside of the outer skin.

I also found that the window seal was not long enough which caused noise to rise from inside the door and reflect off the glass directly into my ear, the seal I mean is the seal along the top of the door, I plugged the gaps by packing some old door seal rubber off another car into each end; this cut treble noise significantly.

My testing method was to park the car with the engine off and with all doors and windows closed, I placed a cheap and tinny sounding transistor radio playing squeaky music outside the car and checked where I could identify ingress of noise. I put the radio at various places round the car, by the front of the doors seemed a good place.




wow, are you an engineer or what!
That's fantastic.

do you mean the door seal on the door or on the car body itself?
pics would help...:-) :)



I do enjoy the technology and techniques of controlling sound and I am inclined, when I start something, to finish it off properly.

I found there were three ways of dampening sound:
1: soaking it up with sponge or cellulose wadding (the kind we put in loudspeaker boxes and is cheap to buy from haberdashers who sell it for padding out shoulders on womens' clothes)
2: Bunging up holes through which sound travels, even the smallest of gap will transmit a lot of noise.
3: Dampening vibration, e.g. using Dynamat on body panels, fortunately the ML is quite well designed and most of the panels do not vibrate much.

I've already mentioned the gap at the ends of the window seals and (hopefully) have attached two pictures of this.

I found that there were numerous gaps through the engine bulkhead (remember mine is a right-hand drive diesel) and I filled these gaps with Plumbers Mait which is a non-setting mastic used for toilets, etc. and was perfect for this, it is sticky and dead (from a noise point of view) and fills gaps without setting hard and without moving. I found there were gaps round the accelerator pedal mounting, behind the bonnet opening panel (see pic) where I put Dynamat and filled a hole above this panel (see pic), this hole goes right through the inner panel and into the outer area which is quite noisy (on a diesel).

I found there was a lot of noise entering the rear of the ML, so I put underbody seal (thick, black gooey stuff which stops vibration) on the wheel well liners (front and rear), I noticed that newer vehicles have these made from a softer material which does not transmit so much noise. I also squirted expanded urethane (?) foam into the inside of the rear bumper (see pics) to stop road noise being reflected into the ventilation panels which are visible if you remove the rear lights, this is a good idea when you are squirting this stuff as you need to leave enough gap for air to enter or leave these ventilation panels and you don't want to gum up the rubber flaps.

There was a noisy gap on my ML where the fuel filler pipe exits the interior underneath the back (see pic), I filled this with the mastic.

I also put underbody seal on the inside of the front 'wings' to good effect.

I also put some Dynamat on the inside of the outer skin of the doors and the rear hatch although I don't think this was worth the effort. I put foam and cellulose wadding inside the door cladding to soak up any noise there and filled all gaps between inner and outer sections of the doors (this is worth the effort).

I put some cellulose wadding (which is very light) between the headliner and the roof and fixed the velcro above the back of the rear seats which is supposed to hold the headliner in place, this partially fixed an annoying rattle and cut noise when going over bumps considerably - which was a bit of a surprise.

I think that's the all I did, I don't have pictures of inside the doors and I don't want to open that up again, mine is one of the first 2002 models so there was already some more sound control in the door panels but it was not put together that well.

Hope this is clear enough, if it isn't please ask.








(Gap at front end of front window seal.jpg)



(Gap at rear end of front window seal.jpg)



(Footwell.jpg)



(Noisy panel.jpg)



(Noisy bolt hole and sponge A.jpg)



(Noisy bolt hole and sponge B.jpg)



(Expanded foam and painted wheel well liner (left).jpg)



(Expanded foam and painted wheel well liner (right).jpg)



(Fuel filler pipe and rear of wheel well liner.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Gap at front end of front window seal.jpg (545KB - 4 downloads)
Attachments Gap at rear end of front window seal.jpg (532KB - 5 downloads)
Attachments Footwell.jpg (543KB - 11 downloads)
Attachments Noisy panel.jpg (513KB - 5 downloads)
Attachments Noisy bolt hole and sponge A.jpg (615KB - 4 downloads)
Attachments Noisy bolt hole and sponge B.jpg (553KB - 6 downloads)
Attachments Expanded foam and painted wheel well liner (left).jpg (523KB - 4 downloads)
Attachments Expanded foam and painted wheel well liner (right).jpg (528KB - 4 downloads)
Attachments Fuel filler pipe and rear of wheel well liner.jpg (501KB - 7 downloads)
#67150 - in reply to #67081
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Posted 3/16/2007 9:19 PM
roadsession

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
marcelc

WOW - marcelc - this should be a TSB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Fantastic work.
As soon as it warms up this is what I'm going to get to...
#67165 - in reply to #67150
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Posted 3/16/2007 10:43 PM
Wolfgang

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
RE: Dynamat

Yeah, interesting info. I remember a TSB with the part numbers for the MB noise dampening mats for the roof and doors from 2001. The mats are supposed to be magnetic so they adhere to the steel of the door even if the glue gives out. Haven't used them yet...

http://www.whnet.com/4x4/pix/T-B-94-20-03.pdf

#67176 - in reply to #66737
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Posted 3/16/2007 10:57 PM
Wolfgang

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
RE: Dynamat

Just checked the part numbers and they are still current. The EPC also shows where the roof mats go:





(roof_mats.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments roof_mats.jpg (46KB - 7 downloads)
#67177 - in reply to #66737
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Posted 3/17/2007 7:16 AM
roadsession

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
RE: Dynamat

i would get it except i'm nervous about opening up the head liner....should i get over it...is it easy to do?
#67202 - in reply to #67177
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Posted 3/17/2007 1:36 PM
Marcelc

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
RE: Dynamat

roadsession - 3/17/2007 12:16 PM

i would get it except i'm nervous about opening up the head liner....should i get over it...is it easy to do?


It's not that hard if you open it from the back and just pull it down a little, I would not attempt to remove it altogether unless I had a major fault.

I opened it from the back up to and including the front grab handles and was able to reach in OK, with the aid of a piece of wood and the loss of some skin off the back of my hands; it is a bit daunting and I did feel a happier when it was back up again.
#67244 - in reply to #67202
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Posted 2/3/2008 10:43 AM
Marcelc

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
RE: Dynamat

I have been working on and off on the soundproofing and have finally finished it, I have achieved quite low noise levels bearing in mind that my engine is diesel.

I sealed round all the fixed windows with strips of foam or felt, particularly round the top of the windscreen which I sealed with draught excluder (which you can only see if you crane your neck up there). Glass is very good at propagating a small amount of noise and making it seem louder.

I added strips of foam under all the door seals (see pic), this cut a lot of rear road noise.

I sealed the bottom of the B, C and D pillars and the tops of all pillars with foam.

I stuffed cellulose wadding under the dashboard, working through the passenger glove box, radio and instrument cluster holes, this needs to be thorough to cut engine and wind noise from the bottom of the windscreen (under the windscreen wiper grill).

I found another noisy bolt hole above the first one (see earlier pics).

I sealed by the front door hinges (see pic) to stop engine noise entering through imperfect door seals, I used roofing felt flashing which is slow to stick but very hard to remove unless you heat it, it is almost as good as Dynamat and much cheaper.

Imperfect front door seals can be improved by padding with cellulose wadding (see pic).

I sealed round the holes in the carpet with foam, there are lots of holes - where the seats are fitted, where the air conditioning comes to the rear seat area and worst of all the kickdown switch.

The next job is replacing the front suspension dampers.




(Foam in rear door seals.jpg)



(Draught excluder along top of windscreen.jpg)



(Roofing felt flashing along front door hinge area.jpg)



(Front door seals padded with cellulose wadding.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Foam in rear door seals.jpg (568KB - 8 downloads)
Attachments Draught excluder along top of windscreen.jpg (562KB - 7 downloads)
Attachments Roofing felt flashing along front door hinge area.jpg (106KB - 6 downloads)
Attachments Front door seals padded with cellulose wadding.jpg (602KB - 6 downloads)
#107936 - in reply to #67244
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