| FAQ | Member List | Albums | Today's Posts | Search  |
| Welcome Guest. ( logon | register ) | |||||
| ||||||
|
|
| Topic Tools | Message Format |
| Author |
| ||
| Roald_NL Date registered: Dec 1899 Location: Vehicle(s): | ML 320 - various noises and problems Hello, Maybe I have failed to locate the correct thread (or: the sounds discribed do not match the ones I'm hearing) so here are the problems: -since I bought the car (a year ago) I hear grinding / scratchy noises (doesn't seem bearing sounds to me) when driving slowly forward or backward. I first thought it might be a brakepad, but it isn't. It could be the sound is present at higher speeds, but there is too much other noise. Went to MB several times, they took a lot of money, no remedy. They did flush the transmission at that point. -second thing: gearlever failed to engage proper speed on automatic transmittion -> problem: the green plastic grommet was gone from the joint. Ok. -third thing: from N to D transmission sometimes doesn't want to change gears up (so, stuck in one gear). -> no grommet issue. remedy: stop, back to N, back to D, solved until it occurs again. However: very unpleasant having to pull over after leaving a parking next to a highway. Dangerous too. -fourth thing: when acceleration from 0 sometimes a sound that resembles a chain slipping over cogged wheels, kinf of like a motorcycle with a really badly worn chain. The MB dealership first refused to change the oil in the transfercase, but I made them do it. Result: pitchblack oil, but no metal particles. The fourth issue especially, is worrying. From the faultcodes MB can't tell what the problem is (they claim), so they just want to replace the entire transfercase (4000 euros, estimated) One guy from the second MB shop told me that according to him there could be two things wrong: 1) It IS the chain in the transfercase, parts 500 euros 2) The bearing between the transmission and the tranfercase / badly worn grooves in the shaft. I'm willing to believe him, but does this mean problem 3 is unrelated? (So:another repair?) Although I like driving the ML, I've fixed so many things by now (horns, wiper engine, rusty chasis, doors, doorpanels coming off, fuel sensor, airmass sensor, lambda sond, instrument illumination) that I'm almost at the point of saying goodbye if no clear cause can be found. BTW: I also have a 17 yr old 300TD, 500.000 km, no problem. Compared to the 300TD this ML is a nightmare. So, that's why I call for the experts' opinion, before wasting another couple of 1000's. Basic Data: 99 ML 320, 177.000 km Fault Codes: VG - Verteilergetrieb P1831 Stellermotor oder Positionsgeber oder Stromversorgung ist fehlerhaft (but Hi / Lo gearing works without problem) EGS - Elektronische Getriebsteuerung 97 Testfehler (ohne bedeutung) 137 (CAN-Kommunication mit steuergerat N78 (steuregerat Verteilgetriebe) zeitweise gestort, VBbestellung zeitweise unplausibel (but, like I said: it works fine!) ME2 - Motorelektronik 2 P0150-130 G3/3 O2-sonde links, vor KAT (unrelated, I think) P0155 O2-sondenheizung G3/3 P0700-106 fehlerspeiger vom steurergerat EGS auslesen ESP Electronuc Stability Program C1314 A7/3 (Hydraulikeinheit Traktionssystem) spannungsversorgung oder Magnetventile uberprufen C1140-010 Codierung bauteil N49 (Lenkwinkelsensor) fehlerhaft C1140-016 N49 (Lenkwinkelsensor) Datenubertragung fehlerhaft oder nicht durchgefuhrt C1140-008 Bauteil N49 (Lenkwinkelsensor) nicht initialisiert AAM All-Actiity-Module B1858-002 Funksignal: Der Festcode ist in Ordnung, aber der Wechselcxode ist nicht synchronisiert. Theory: because CAN communication with N78 is malfunctioning, could the transmission switch to emergencymode, blocking the gearchanges? Any help/ comments greatly appreciated. Roald | ||
| #81308 |
| ||
| Author |
| ||
| cmitch Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Ala-Tenn Vehicle(s): 2002 ML320, 2005 S430 4Matic, 2010 F150 Super Crew Posts: 3412  | RE: ML 320 - various noises and problems Sorry you're having so much trouble. For starters, I'd change the transfer case fluid-AGAIN and then again in another 4000 miles. It takes more than 1 change to get rid of the noise. If you haven't already done it, I'd change the transmission FILTER and then the fluid again, as well. Now, for the AAM. Have any keys went bad? The AAM's have been causing trouble to some people. You really don't want to know what an AAM will cost to replace! I really wouldn't let them change your transfer case. They wanted to change mine and that was 60,000 miles ago. I changed my fluid a couple of times and I still do it every 5000 miles or so. It has been fine. | ||
| #81334 - in reply to #81308 |
| ||
| Author |
| ||
| Roald_NL Date registered: Dec 1899 Location: Vehicle(s): | Re: ML 320 - various noises and problems Hi cmitch, I guess that if one has not enough money to buy a brandnew ML, you're going to be part of the rocky horror pictureshow crowd: always something spooky pending, and totally unpredictable. I don't mind repairing a couple of things, and I'm fairly good at it - but this ML seems to be a complex piece of machinery. What looks like unrelated parts turn out to influence eachother nevertheless. What has always helped me are the Haynes manuals - unfortunately I haven't come across a good workshop manual for the ML. I bought a WIS-DVD and an ODBII reader - not much help in this case. But back to the issue: the transmission filter has been replaced some 10K before - could be done again. I read something about valves getting clogged due to dirt. Seems worth a try. I also wonder if a sensor in the transmission is dead - or limping, causing the electronics to mis-interpret the mechanics (wild guess, I have no diagram) The transfercase produced such black stuff I was going to replace the oil anyway. How rare / common is is for the belt to wear out? This chain sound only occurs when accelerating from 0 in a faster-than-normal way. It produces shocks/jerks too (not vibrations, that would mean a constant sound over a longer period, this is sound+ shock at the same time, usually 3 or 4 times in 2 seconds, disappearing when less power is needed once up to speed) I have no idea what the key-issue is. Both work fine. It would be handy to know if there is a procedure to teach this AAM that they are both fine. Since I bought the car a year ago I have no knowledge of what happened before. Changing the transfer case is not too complicated - much easier than the actual transmission. The thing is: I would do it if I get some guarantee the problem is REALLY solved there. Although slightly off-topic: If marriage is a match made in heaven, it also has about the same value and will violently burst into flames with very little abrasive surface ;-) | ||
| #81536 - in reply to #81308 |
| ||
| « View previous thread :: View next thread » |
|
|
