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| Inkblotz Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Georgia Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo Posts: 3187  | R&R trailing arm Bushings When replacing my axle seal a few weeks ago, I noticed that my trailing arm bushings were in sad shape. The rubber portion had separated from its sleeve and was puckering out of its housing. All arms from and rear were exhibiting this condition. With the worst being the fronts. On one inner sleeve (the one that the bolt goes through) it was not attached at all and just flopping around in its rubber housing. With almost 200k on the clock it was due for a little refreshing. I ordered all new bushings front and rear (FYI: the Front bushings and rear bushings are not the same size). I then set out to make a press to remove the bushings. (yes I know a shop can do the pressing in and out part for me, but since this is my daily driver the shop was not an option). The one I built did worked perfectly. I used liberal amounts of Anti-Sieze, and a couple large sockets and some cast plumbing pieces to press out the old and press in the new. The force it takes to remove the old ones taxed the the top of my press a bit. So I reinforced it with some steel and "pressed on". The procedure: With the G on the ground I reached under and removed one arm at a time, removing the bolt that mounts to the body first then the 2 at the axle. Then with liberal amounts of PB Blaster, a little rocking of the arm, a bar to get it out of the axle housing they come right out. Very straight forward. Take the one arm down to the "press room" to press out the 2 old bushings and press in the new ones. A couple of the rear bushings did not want to budge because of some corrosion on the sleeve so I used a small punch and a hammer around the edge of the sleeve tapping/deforming the sleeve inward. This freed it up for easy press removal. The fronts were a bit more time consuming than the rears as you have to remove the sway bar, remove one end of the drag link (you can swing it out of the way) and one end of the steering shock. With the rears the lower shock mount bolt needed to be removed to get the shock out of the way to access one of the bolts holding the bushing. After each arm install in the rear I then jacked up that side of the G till the shock lined up with its mating hole and reattached the shock. Then lowered it down and moved to the other side. Reinstalling each arm: I inserted and fastened the end attached to the body first then using a small bottle jack lifted the arm into its housing and slid a large punch into one of the holes to help align the holes to receive the bolts. The gradual raising and lowering bottle jack in conjunction with the punch in one of the holes to torque the arm in one direction or another worked the best to align the bolts. A rubber mallet was employed once the bolt was 3/4 of the way through to tap it all the way through. I torqued all the bolts and was good to go. For me the entire procedure took a weekend to complete. With the fronts taking the longest due to the extra items to remove. Sorry I did not take more photos but my hands were layered with PB Blaster and Anti-Seize. Handling, stability and drivability has much improved Mark Special Thanks to Karl and Dai for their insight. Edited by Inkblotz 3/22/2012 9:34 AM (Bushings.JPG) (Bushings2.JPG) Attachments ----------------  Bushings.JPG (181KB - 27 downloads) Bushings2.JPG (207KB - 26 downloads) | |
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| AlanMcR Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: US, CA, Los Altos Vehicle(s): G300DT E300DT 230SL Posts: 3500 | ||
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| DUTCH Administrator Doppelgänger Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: US, GA, Atlanta Vehicle(s): 2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI,2018 Sprinter Posts: 9963  | ||
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| zimm Elite Veteran Date registered: Feb 2010 Location: pittsburgh Vehicle(s): lx470, 76 fj40, 72fj40, 96 gelandewagen g320. Posts: 788  | ||
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| Inkblotz Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Georgia Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo Posts: 3187 | ||
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| thanito Veteran Date registered: Aug 2009 Location: Greece Vehicle(s): MB G400CDI, MB 300E-24, Mini Cooper S Posts: 253  | ||
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| Razon Date registered: Jul 2008 Location: Vancouver, BC Vehicle(s): 1986 280ge Cabrio, 617A, 5sp manual | ||
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| AlanMcR Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: US, CA, Los Altos Vehicle(s): G300DT E300DT 230SL Posts: 3500 | ||
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| 512bbi Expert Date registered: Jan 2007 Location: North western US and Europe Vehicle(s): 05G55kge,Range rover classic,clk55amg,ML 430 Posts: 1313  | ||
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| Inkblotz Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Georgia Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo Posts: 3187 | RE: R&R trailing arm Bushings Sorry poor photo. Mark (Trailing Arm Bushing.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Trailing Arm Bushing.jpg (170KB - 22 downloads) | |
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| thanito Veteran Date registered: Aug 2009 Location: Greece Vehicle(s): MB G400CDI, MB 300E-24, Mini Cooper S Posts: 253 | ||
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| Inkblotz Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Georgia Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo Posts: 3187 | ||
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| 512bbi Expert Date registered: Jan 2007 Location: North western US and Europe Vehicle(s): 05G55kge,Range rover classic,clk55amg,ML 430 Posts: 1313 | ||
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| Inkblotz Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Georgia Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo Posts: 3187 | ||
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| stevegsmith Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: SF Bay Area, CA USA Vehicle(s): 82 300GD WVO, 06 Jeep Lib CRD B99 Posts: 1301 | ||
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| Inkblotz Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Georgia Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo Posts: 3187 | ||
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| stevegsmith Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: SF Bay Area, CA USA Vehicle(s): 82 300GD WVO, 06 Jeep Lib CRD B99 Posts: 1301 | ||
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| Inkblotz Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Georgia Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo Posts: 3187 | ||
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| pete_v Member Date registered: Aug 2011 Location: Norway Vehicle(s): 300GD SWB pickup (1990 WDB460.332) Posts: 36  | RE: R&R trailing arm Bushings Just done my front trailing arm bushes. I read Marks excellent guide above, before starting. While it's fresh in my mind I'll add my $0.02: Prep: 1. Front axle onto stands 2. Remove road wheels 3. Remove anti-roll bar 4. Remove RHS drag arm ball joint (on my LH drive vehicle) & steering damper from drag arm. Then, one side at once: 5. Remove trailing arm - chassis nut, washer & rubber bush. 6. Remove trailing arm - axle two bolts. 7. Withdraw trailing arm downwards & forwards 8. Press out old bushes, & clean surfaces 9. Press in new bushes 10. Installation as per step 7 - 5 in reverse proceedure. 11. Repeat step 5 - 10 for the other side. 12. Tension trailing arm & anti-roll bar nuts with road wheels on the ground. For any Scandinavian readers, here's what I used to press out/in the bushings: 20Tonn press: http://www.biltema.no/no/Bil---MC/Verktoy-og-verkstedutstyr/Bilverk... Drift: http://www.biltema.no/no/Bil---MC/Verktoy-og-verkstedutstyr/Chassis... The whole exercise took about 2 hours per side, and would be a bit quicker second time round. The handling difference is amazing. At present I run 7.00R16 FuldaFlex Allrounds on the standard steel rims (love that funny jeep look) and where previously it would hop & skip around corners, now it holds on to the extent that it goes up on two wheels if pushed. /Pete (press-trailing-arm2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- press-trailing-arm2.jpg (159KB - 19 downloads) | |
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| Inkblotz Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Georgia Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo Posts: 3187 | ||
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