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| Inkblotz Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Georgia Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo Posts: 3186  | Vacuum Lines refresh/replace The white plastic vacuum lines that are attached to the brake booster will over time become brittle, yellow and brown. The fittings that are in the line rarely go bad. So lets do a little refresh by replacing the lines and saving the fittings. You will need a length of plastic hose (I got mine from Eurotruck) an inexpensive paint striper/heat gun (a hair dryer or a pot of boiling water will have similar results but the dryer will take a bit longer to heat it up and the boiling water is a little messier). For this post I used the heat gun/paint stripper. First remove the brown plastic pipe being careful with the small attached vacuum nipples. (Remember/take a photo of how it all goes together). Take a sharp blade and cut into the pipe where it is attached to the various fittings. Do not cut too deep just enough to remove the old brown pipe. After you make the cut hold the old pipe up close to the fitting in one hand and the fitting itself in the other. Carefully snap them apart like you are breaking a stick in 2. If you scored/cut it deep enough the old pipe will come right off. Proceed to the other end of that section of old pipe and repeat the procedure. Now using the old section of brown pipe you just took off as a template make a twin of it with the new pipe. Then proceed to the next sections of old brown pipe to be removed and repeat the procedure. Once you have all the sections made it's time to attach the new pipe. Take the fittings, line them up and using your Photo/memory proceed to the next step. Take your heat gun turn it on, lay it on a table aimed toward you, hold the end of the plastic pipe to be attached and rotate it in front of the heat gun keeping it about 2-3 inches away. It will not take long to heat it up. Now holding the warmed pipe in one hand and the fitting in the other push the fitting into the softened pipe. If it does not go on all the way heat it some more by rotating it until it goes completely onto the fitting. Them proceed to the rest of the fittings. One caution make sure you take into account the bend of the old pipe and try to replicate a similar arch. You can heat up sections of the pipe and carefully bend them to shape. Also make sure your attachment nipples are pointed in the right direction. When I did mine I attached the metal fitting (with the nut) first and heated and pushed on the fittings in the engine compartment. I still have a bit more to do down in the recesses of the fender well but for now the main pipes have been replaced. See the photos below. Mark My disclaimer: you are responsible for your own results good or bad. Edited by Inkblotz 2/21/2011 6:15 AM (1.jpg) (2.jpg) (3.jpg) (4.jpg) (5.jpg) (6.jpg) (7.jpg) Attachments ----------------  1.jpg (199KB - 1 downloads) 2.jpg (188KB - 1 downloads) 3.jpg (93KB - 0 downloads) 4.jpg (132KB - 0 downloads) 5.jpg (142KB - 1 downloads) 6.jpg (120KB - 1 downloads) 7.jpg (126KB - 0 downloads) | |
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| G-AMG G-Class DIY Host Date registered: May 2006 Location: South Texas Vehicle(s): '04 G55, '80 280GE, '99 S420, '98 E320, 2011 E350  | ||
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| Inkblotz Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Georgia Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo Posts: 3186 | ||
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| hus55 Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: north cyprus,lapta. Vehicle(s): 300GDS, G300 LONG,300GDT CLK55 AMG CAB. Posts: 2230 | RE: Vacuum Lines refresh/replace thanks for the tip mark.. so you csn still do things with a broken leg..  | |
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| Inkblotz Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Georgia Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo Posts: 3186 | ||
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